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House Heating Question
We all know that once the system has been installed as new, hot water/steam radiators are the most efficient of all home heating systems. So my question is this: Has anyone ever used an electric oil-filled radiator in each room in place of a FAG system? And if so, how bad was the electric bill? And finally, do these oil-filled radiators have an internal pump or not?
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#2
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My grandmother used to use one. It wasn't any better than other heating element design space heaters of the same power. It did seem to work much better in smaller rooms, though.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#3
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No pumps. The relative costs depends on the relative price of gas vs. electricity so I don't think any answer will be universal.
I have gas hot water radiators in my house. However, it is zoned and I don't heat the upstairs where we sleep. If the temperatures upstairs start dropping into the 30's I'll turn on oil filled electric radiators in our two bedrooms rather than heating the whole upstairs. Doesn't seem to drive up the bill excessively, although we typically only use them under those circumstances for a few hours a night. My boiler is slightly undersized for my house. (I bought it used cheap) so when it get to about 20 below zero it has to work hard to keep the house in the mid 60's. I considered installing a higher BTU boiler but concluded it wasn't worth the effort. For the few days every few years where it gets that cold. oil filled electric radiators are an adequate supplement.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#4
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Shortly after I had a new gas furnace installed, had to pull a line in from the street, the price of NG went through the roof. Here the elec. is relatively cheap, so I got a couple of those, they work fine.
As kerry mentions each scenario will be different due to various costs of energy in your area. I do keep one in the garage.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#5
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Technically this is not true, if by efficiency you are talking about: (energy converted to heat)/(energy purchased). Only electricity turns almost 100% of the energy you purchase into heat. The reason it is not used more is because it usually costs more. Point source (space) heaters can be cost effective since they put the heat exactly where it is needed. Keep in mind that in electric heaters "watts is watts" so the technology is irrelevant from that point of view. One 1500W heater will not make more heat than another 1500W heater, even if the advertisement seems to suggest it will. I like the oil filled radiator kind since they have no fan so are quite and reliable. I have a neat one with a remote wireless thermostat, but they don't make that anymore that I know of. They do not have a pump. The oil circulates by "gravity". Your results will depend on a lot of variables. The main ones are the efficiency of your FA system (which depends on a lot of things), and of course your costs for gas and electricity. I do something similar to what you describe, and the savings depends on how you set the heaters. If they are running all the time then you won't save much. If you just heat where you need it and keep the temp reasonable then you might. If you have a wife then this is likely a bad plan...
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#6
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Have you thought of asking your utility company? I know the one we have here has thermal imaging stuff to help you see where your house is leaking heat. They also give advice on different heating systems. Perhaps you can try them?
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#7
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Its still resistance heating no matter how you slice it. It's the most inefficient way to heat a space when you consider the energy lost at each stage of conversion and transmission from the power supply to your heater. But if your rates are low, it might still be a deal. Just don't bank on it long term.
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
#8
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I appreciate all the input. Here in Cincinnati, I am held hostage by Duke bloody-expensive Energy. Last month I was able to switch electric suppliers from Duke to Dominion - approximately half the price of Duke, even though they still deliver the power. Gas is still the same - HIGH.
I have a couple of electric space heaters, but they seem to blow more than heat; hence, my interest in oil radiators.
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#9
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Could you be more specific about the energy lost and where? It is safe to say that about 99% of the electricity you buy gets turned into heat in a space heater (minus any for a fan if it has one).
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#10
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I don't have any insight on specific heaters, however...
Insulation, insulation, insulation ![]() A couple of summers ago, I added 12+ inches of blown cellulose type insulation into my mother's town-house attic. It has since paid for itself numerous times (summer and winter). It wasn't difficult at all, seal up any holes with foam (in a can), install some new soffit baffles (keeps the insulation out of the vents), and then spend the better part of an afternoon with a helper blowing the stuff in.
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1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008 1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009 262,715 and counting ![]() |
#11
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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I thnk electric is running a bit over 13cents in our area (half way between Cincinnati, Oh. and Lexington, Ky. I heat a big house and have electric baseboard heat (17 thermostats!). If I really want to keep the place warm thoughout, the bill can head towards four digits! There is actually a separate 225A panel and meter for the electric heat. My little kerosene heaters cost 40% less to run per BTU. Yes, I'm working on sealing up the house. Project down the road is geothermal heat pump.
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#13
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Quote:
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
#14
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most heatpumps, when operating in heat pump mode (not using backup resistance) will only put out air slightly warmer than the air in the room. They don't have the several hundred degree heat exchanger found in a fuel fired furnace. That doesn't bother me as I had a rather good air-source heat pump at my old house. Gas is available at the street, but while the wholesale price of gas (close to the wellhead) has gone down, the retail price we pay is still up there and likely to stay as high as the suppliers can get away with. The grond coupled system looks the best to me, just want to be sure to get the biggest ground loop I can afford(or maybe a bit bigger than that!). House was built for caol fireplaces and I have actually thought of putting in a couple of small coal stoves for supplimental heat. Eventually, as I tighten up the house, that could be a problem.
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#15
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My parents tried it last year by using three oil filled radiators vs. running the furnace....and while it raised their electric bill by about $75-90 a month....it kept the furnace from being needed at all (saving about $200+ a month) It did not work as well when it gets real cold out though. But through December that method worked fine.
Currently we have so much computer equipment running in the basement for his business that it actually has reduced the amount of furnace run-time needed to keep the house warm! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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