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#31
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use this link to calculate (coal in your area is probably about 350 per ton bagged) http://www.blaschakcoal.com/html/calculate.htm
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#32
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Quote:
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#33
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I thnk electric is running a bit over 13cents in our area (half way between Cincinnati, Oh. and Lexington, Ky. I heat a big house and have electric baseboard heat (17 thermostats!). If I really want to keep the place warm thoughout, the bill can head towards four digits! There is actually a separate 225A panel and meter for the electric heat. My little kerosene heaters cost 40% less to run per BTU. Yes, I'm working on sealing up the house. Project down the road is geothermal heat pump.
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#34
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Quote:
__________________
1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
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#35
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most heatpumps, when operating in heat pump mode (not using backup resistance) will only put out air slightly warmer than the air in the room. They don't have the several hundred degree heat exchanger found in a fuel fired furnace. That doesn't bother me as I had a rather good air-source heat pump at my old house. Gas is available at the street, but while the wholesale price of gas (close to the wellhead) has gone down, the retail price we pay is still up there and likely to stay as high as the suppliers can get away with. The grond coupled system looks the best to me, just want to be sure to get the biggest ground loop I can afford(or maybe a bit bigger than that!). House was built for caol fireplaces and I have actually thought of putting in a couple of small coal stoves for supplimental heat. Eventually, as I tighten up the house, that could be a problem.
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