Slate flooring - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Zeus · #16 12-23-2009, 10:38 AM

cmac - I'll add to the advice already given...

I would definitely use a membrane underlayment of some sort to act as an uncoupling layer. I think Kerdi is more for waterproofing...you may want to use Ditra instead?

Slate can effloresce, so I would give it as much time as you can before you seal it prior to grouting. If you seal and grout too early, you'll get little bloom marks. I would let it dry after setting for a couple of days if your schedule permits to allow all moisture to evaporate and let the slate fully dry. Then seal and grout.

Something to perhaps advise your client of -

Depending on the color, the choice of sealant can make a huge difference in look re: wet vs. dry look. The gloss sealant can really darken the tiles and some don't like the wet look.

Also - if you are using a formal color, it will scratch incredibly easily and the marks will really show. I laid a very high quality black slate tile in my previous home and it looked fantastic when done. Very formal. It quickly went from formal to rustic however, as gravel, sand and pebbles from everyday traffic into the home took its toll. We used a semi-gloss sealant and every nick showed up. Not a big deal as we liked the rustic, worn look as it suited our decor. If your client's residence is more formal or urban though, it's something to consider. You would likely have to reseal it periodically to keep it looking formal.

Just my $0.02.

cmac2012 · #17 12-23-2009, 11:47 AM

More good advice. I hate long learning curves that involve phone calls, complaints, etc.

I got an e-mail back from the outfit Skid Row Joe recommended - Compotite - said they have some samples in the mail. They have a distributor in Concord, the town where the job is happening, so that's handy.

Zeus · #18 12-23-2009, 01:26 PM

cmac - if you have a large volume to do, try builddirect.com. I've ordered flooring from them and I've been very satisfied thus far. Cheap prices as they work directly with manufacturers and they basically arrange the shipping.

Skid Row Joe · #19 12-23-2009, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidmash

So far no stains.

You won't have any staining on slate that cannot be easily removed. It is a stone that will not hold a stain- just like granite. Any stain will remain near the surface.

Skid Row Joe · #20 12-23-2009, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeus

cmac - I'll add to the advice already given...

I would definitely use a membrane underlayment of some sort to act as an uncoupling layer. I think Kerdi is more for waterproofing...Correct. It has NO anti-fracture capabilities.you may want to use Ditra instead?Ditra is very costly - after all the costs for it and setting materials are tallied to install it. It is very thick as well - as contrasted with Compotite Gold. There are numerous membranes and waterproofers available these days - Ditra has been marketed to death.

Slate can effloresce,Untrue. Slate does not effloresce. It contains nothing that would "effloresce" either. so I would give it as much time as you can before you seal it prior to grouting. If you seal and grout too early, you'll get little bloom marks. I would let it dry after setting for a couple of days if your schedule permits to allow all moisture to evaporate and let the slate fully dry.Not so, if properly using a breathable sealer - one that allows for moisture vapor transmission. Then seal and grout.

Something to perhaps advise your client of -

Depending on the color, the choice of sealant can make a huge difference in look re: wet vs. dry look. The gloss sealant can really darken the tiles and some don't like the wet look.

Also - if you are using a formal color, it will scratch incredibly easily and the marks will really show. I laid a very high quality black slate tile in my previous home and it looked fantastic when done. Very formal. It quickly went from formal to rustic however, as gravel, sand and pebbles from everyday traffic into the home took its toll. We used a semi-gloss sealant and every nick showed up. Not a big deal as we liked the rustic, worn look as it suited our decor. If your client's residence is more formal or urban though, it's something to consider. You would likely have to reseal it periodically to keep it looking formal.You are mixing and confusing topical floor finishes and sealers - without regard to penetrating floor enriching and darkening sealers in the above statements. If the slate scratches - it will do so regardless of the floor finish or sealer applied - topical or otherwise. I also have no idea of what you mean by, "formal color?" There are no "formal colors" of slate, as pertains to nomanclature. Slate is slate, irrespective of color.

Just my $0.02.

After 25+ years in the installation and sales of tile, stone, sealing and restoration flooring biz - just my experience differing with what was stated by Zues.

Stoneseller · #21 12-24-2009, 08:21 AM

Slate is basically baked mud. The varieties that have been well baked, such as those from Vermont or Arvonia, VA are extremely non porous and never "need" to be sealed. Their appearance can be very nicely enhanced with appropriate "sealers" if desired.

There are multitudes of imported "slates" from India, Africa, South America, China, etc that vary anywhere from half baked hard mud to very dense quartziferious sandstones. Some are very durable, as davidmash's seem to be, and some are real junk.

The best DIY forum for advice on all things tile & slate, and other stuff, is the John Bridge forum. Lots of very friendly professionals willing to share their experience, and also lots of average Joe's discussing their mistakes & success stories. A very worthwhile place to sign in.

http://www.johnbridge.com/
or the forums
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

These guys are the best, IMHO

t walgamuth · #22 12-24-2009, 01:46 PM

So you would say some are porous and will stain if not sealed?

I found it incredible that SRJ would compare slate to granite. I have some experience with both materials and the comparison seemed to me like saying a Chevette is the same as a Mercedes.

Slate you can score and snap, I wouldn't want to try that with granite. I installed some slate on my roof which you could cut with a device much like a paper cutter and punch holes with something much like a hole punch for paper.

I suppose it depends on the quality of slate. The slate available around here, I was led to believe by my professional tile setters, is porous and needs to be sealed to keep it from staining.

Stoneseller · #23 12-24-2009, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

So you would say some are porous and will stain if not sealed?

I found it incredible that SRJ would compare slate to granite. I have some experience with both materials and the comparison seemed to me like saying a Chevette is the same as a Mercedes.

I'd agree with you.

[QUOTE=t walgamuth;2367444]Slate you can score and snap, I wouldn't want to try that with granite. I installed some slate on my roof which you could cut with a device much like a paper cutter and punch holes with something much like a hole punch for paper.[/QUOTE}
Likely a Vermont or VA slate, split very thin. That paper cutter device rips through the stone very easily indeed, but you don't see water penetrating through that roof do you?

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I suppose it depends on the quality of slate. The slate available around here, I was led to believe by my professional tile setters, is porous and needs to be sealed to keep it from staining.

Apple & Oranges. I sell miles of Pennsylvania Blue Stone every year here in MD. A large number of my shoppers think they are buying "slate". They are not. Put PA Bluestone on your kitchen or foyer floor, unsealed, and it will soak up everything you spill on it. Put Vermont slate in the same place, and the only problems you will have with it not being sealed is difficulty keeping the surface clean due to the texture capturing dirt & dust.

Just as many of the materials being marketed as "Granite" are indeed of some other geology that makes them not true granite.

t walgamuth · #24 12-24-2009, 05:12 PM

Aha! I suppose in the lack of a law clearly defining what slate and granite are we can have a wide variety "marketed" by vendors of widely varying integrity.

colincoon · #25 12-24-2009, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidmash

I put something else down when I did my floor. I had some hair line cracks in the slab and I went to a tile only specialty place. They sold me a 'rubber' type thing that had a thin layer of fabric on the back. I rolled out some special contact cement (clear like water) that reacted with the rubber and laid it out n the crack. I was told it would allow a little movement (settling) and not crack the tile. So far the tile has been down almost 6 years and no cracks. I did lay slate by the way and they are 16x16.

The membrane was quite thin as I recall, maybe the thickness of a credit card or a credit card and a half. It's the red stuff on the bottom of the first picture.

I have nothing to add to this thread besides the fact that your cat looks exactly like mine.

The slate is nice too