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#1
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Water heater problems...
I've been struggling with a gas water heater in the townhouse for over 5 days now... it's Whilpool 30gal gas burner from 2003 - not in a bad shape, but lately very problematic...
It started losing pilot flame out of the blue - I've tracked over there twice to light it backup but I knew there must be another problem. Finally called the 1-800 number and spoke to someone who advised me that the warranty is over but they can send me a kit for free to solve the 'pilot light not staying on problem'... surely I accepted. The kit arrived the next day - with 4 pages of instructions. It took quite a bit to get the replacement in but at the end the heater had a brand new 'innards' down in the firebox so I felt good about it. The flame stayed on, while I was there... I was hopeful... Two days later - wouldn't you know it another phone call. Sure enough the pilot light is out again... I'm really at a loss as to what could be going on. I guess it's possible that the whole gas valve/regulator is acting up and it's time for a new water heater. One thing that's puzzling me is this: the instruction manual for the kit installation went into great pains to insure that the firebox is well sealed. So if the firebox is sealed so well, how does it get fresh air for the flame to stay on?! Maybe the fresh air supply vent (wherever that is) is clogged? It might make sense, since it's having the same problem with the new kit in place... Any advice would be welcome. Thanks, James
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K Last edited by MercFan; 12-20-2009 at 01:47 PM. |
#2
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Sealing the fire box is important to keep drafts from blowing out the pilot light.
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#3
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They usually have an adjustment for the size of the pilot flame. Increase this slightly and your problem might disappear.
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#4
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when that happens, I usually replace the thermocouple.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#5
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I am guessing that is what was in the kit.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#6
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Agreed........that's probably the best solution.
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#7
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There is a forum for waterheaters of course...
Mainly the questions get answered by the mod there. http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/TheTank.html
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#8
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Just doing a quick search over there, they are mentioning a thing called "thermal release device" (TRD) which can go bad.
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1666&forum_id=3&highlight=trd
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#9
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Thanks guys - like, the replacement kit came ready to install/replace. I basically consisted of everything new in the firebox, except the brass orifice which I was instructed to remove (with great pains) and place in the new unit. That orifice is what delivers the right amount of gas to the burner... nothing to do with the pilot light....
I called Whirlpool and they said that I need to replace the gas valve - which is the only thing left to replace, besides the actual steel tank at this point. Since it's Sunday I'm going to wait until tomorrow to get a new gas valve in the supply house and hopefully THAT problem will be solved....
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#10
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Did you tell Whirlpool you are a mile high?
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#11
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I had this same problem and of course, it would manifest itself on cold mornings when I needed a shower...
Anyway, it was the little nut that secures the thermocouple to the control valve. All it needed was to be wiggled around some and cinched down a little tighter. That was about 4 years ago and it's been fine ever since.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#12
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Is this a rental unit with the heater in a cabinet? If it re-lights relatively easily and burns clean blue when you've got the cabinet open, then I'd lean toward it being a vent issue. It lights when you open the door because you give fresh air.
If it's near the furnace, there might be other vent issues where the furnace is drawing air and blowing out the pilot. Check the ducts and maybe the filters. Also verify the thermocouple rod is adjusted to the correct position relative to the pilot light flame. If it's too far away it'll shut off the gas. |
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