|
|
|
|
|
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yup, these Live Oaks are a whole 'nother oak. Nothin' like 'em. Thanks for the input.
__________________
'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
|
" Kill off the stump, Smack a few copper nails into it. that will kill it. took care of the oak stumps in front of our house "
i'm currently working on killing my live oak tree using this method. i've read good results on the copper nails method
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
|
We had to remove the tree since it was pushing up a patio. When we poured the patio (few years ago), we had tried to cut/remove the roots and it was impossible, they were EVERYWHERE. If we had tried to dig up the root when we cut the tree, I would have needed a big backhoe and since the tree was close to the patio, I imagine we would have cracked that at the very least.
Trees are great in the 10-20 year range. Quote:
__________________
MB-less |
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
When a tree grows in the open without competing with other trees for light, it will generally take advantage of the profuse sunlight and it will grow much shorter overall, but will generally have a significantly wider canopy. Live oaks have a wide, sprawling form to begin with and they'll bring a wide root system with that. Since they are long-lived and robust trees, removing them fully brings that challenge with it. They're inherently designed to be tough survivors, so they aren't going to leave your lawn without a fight! ![]() Personally, I love forest-grown trees in the 100-200 yr range. One can try to mimic this growth with new trees by choosing certain hardwoods and planting them in a cluster instead of alone in the open. The trees will then be able to support each other as buffers during storms and wind, and they will compete with each other for sunlight, which will mean they will grow tall quickly - each racing upwards for more canopy space and light. If you have already removed most of the root ball and the larger buttressing roots, the radial roots will eventually die and rot. If you are diligent trimming the suckers, the resources in the buried roots will eventually dry up and the sucker growth will diminish. I would try and sever as many large roots as possible and just keep trimming the suckers. You should see them die off over time. Then again, I don't have actual experience with live oaks...there is something kinda mystical about them with those long, gnarled limbs and that moss and all...perhaps they have other *help*.... ![]() Good luck!
__________________
Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon Last edited by Zeus; 04-14-2010 at 12:29 PM. |
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
|
Good stuff, Zeus, thanks for the education on trees - a lot of which I did not know!
__________________
'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
|
Np!
__________________
Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|