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  #16  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
If you live in the rust belt, you might.
Thought those were problems EVEN IF YOU DIDN'T live in the rust belt?

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  #17  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by raymr View Post
Sounds like everyones favorite would be a 90-95 E. Sound good to me too, though I like the more modern look of the W210 body. I've never driven either one.
Not me. I think those cupholders were probably worth about $0.25 apiece.
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim View Post
Thought those were problems EVEN IF YOU DIDN'T live in the rust belt?
I think the problem is more related to production quality.
A perch on a friend's '95 124 required repair, while the perches on my '95 are virtually perfect and my car spent it's first 10 years at the NJ shore.
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2010, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
my car spent it's first 10 years at the NJ shore.
I hope it had a good time.

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  #20  
Old 06-10-2010, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by raymr View Post
Sounds like everyones favorite would be a 90-95 E. Sound good to me too, though I like the more modern look of the W210 body. I've never driven either one.
Drive a '98-'99 E300TD, and you'll never go backward in speed and quickness - if you are considering a diesel-powered W210 - go turbo. The efficiency is improved over the non-turbodiesel '96-'97 E300, for not much more money...
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  #21  
Old 06-10-2010, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Drive a '98-'99 E300TD, and you'll never go backward in speed and quickness - if you are considering a diesel-powered W210 - go turbo. The efficiency is improved over the non-turbodiesel '96-'97 E300, for not much more money...
I think the gas models are quicker. Not sure about top speed though. Still, I wouldn't go with a diesel unless you are driving long distances every day.
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2010, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim View Post
I think the gas models are quicker. Not sure about top speed though. Still, I wouldn't go with a diesel unless you are driving long distances every day.
On the diesel, you want to make sure the glow plugs have been changed at some point.
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  #23  
Old 06-10-2010, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
On the diesel, you want to make sure the glow plugs have been changed at some point.
Once a year, I take them out and clean the threads. Last time I didn't, I had to R&R the head AGAIN. Sorry, diesel isn't so good that it is worth all that hassle and at the pump
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  #24  
Old 06-10-2010, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
No. Evaporators don't have a near certain failure rate like wiring harness and head gaskets. Wiring harnesses are usually done by now, and are easy to pick out if they're not (date tags and inspecting insulation). Head gaskets can fail early or make it well over the 150k hump, you never know.

My first E320 wagon I purchased cheap. Though it had a new wiring harness, the head gasket was leaking oil externally. The car had 150k when I had it done. The AC always blew cold, no record of an evaporator replacement.

My second E320 wagon got a brand new head from Mercedes at 70k, and the wiring harness looked old, but perhaps not original (date tag was rubbed and illegible) AC always blew cold, once again, no record of an evaporator replacement. Purchased at 110k, sold at 120k.

My 300SEL (M103 motor) recieved a new head gasket and valve seals at about 110k.

That's the other thing to consider. If you go M103, valve seals are a certain repair if they haven't been done already.

Yup on the valve stem seals, but it's not particulary expensive. My job was about 30.00 for the seals and a couple of hours std labor. 220-250 total. Been a few years tho.

My evap is original. But I use the a/c very infrequently. Not needed much where I live.
I did have to replace the orig radiator last year, then at few months later the water pump failed on the car. Mine is an 88 300CE. The plastic neck on the originals were a sure to fail part. Don't know if they were beefed up on later models or the M104. Mine failed because the right side seam opened up. At 21 years though, somethings gotta go. Btw the car turned 100k in Feb 2008, 111 k last august and now has 118k on the clock. I have no plans whatsoever of selling this car. Still turns heads.

R&M last year was close to 2k, but not much more than oil chnges and routine stuff for the 2 or 3 years before that. Nothing wrong with the M103 motor. And there were a gazillion of them made.

http://www.peachparts.com/300e.htm

The M103 3.0 liter inline 6 engine in the 1986-1992 300E's displaced 2962cc's or 180.8 cubic inches. While in SOHC 2 valve per cylinder trim it made 177 horsepower @ 5700rpm and 188 lb-ft of torque @4400rpm.

The 24 valve DOHC 3.0L motor of the CE(coupe) made 217HP @ 6400rpm and 195lb ft of torque @ 4600rpm.

In 1993 model year the E-class got a new inline six. This new M104 engine displaced 3190cc's and with a 10:1 compression ratio made 217HP @ 5500rpm and 229lb-ft @ 3750rpm. The new DOHC 24 valve engine had variable valve timing on the intake cams and a tuned resonance intake manifold to spread torque over the rpm band while actually improving fuel economy.

The older 300's got a few more horses in the barn, but they put on about 400 more pounds.
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  #25  
Old 06-10-2010, 05:18 PM
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'90-'91 300SEL
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  #26  
Old 06-10-2010, 07:21 PM
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S320's are good cars, not to bad to work on.

Find a base one, without the self closing doors and other stuff that can break.
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  #27  
Old 06-10-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
S320's are good cars, not to bad to work on.

Find a base one, without the self closing doors and other stuff that can break.
Thats my gut feeling, on 2 levels:

1) when you go Mercedes, you might as well go big.
2) the advice I'm getting here regarding E-class is pushing me back to MY90-92, which is getting almost as old as the 380SE, or PDO (pretty damn old).

* 3) I just like the look of the newer cars.
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  #28  
Old 06-10-2010, 07:53 PM
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There good cars, just get a 1997-99 with low miles thats in good shape. Take care of it and it won't be any more troublesome than any other MB.

The m104 is bullet proof, far better motor than the M103, and the 722.6 is also bullet proof.


People make a big deal out of the evap cores, but they are like $1800 to change, its not the end of the world. The diesel W210's are not much better, chances are you will be pulling a head.
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  #29  
Old 06-10-2010, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
People make a big deal out of the evap cores, but they are like $1800 to change, its not the end of the world. The diesel W210's are not much better, chances are you will be pulling a head.
Flat rate to change the evaporator is 22 hours for a 124, more for other models. Add in parts and the price is closer to $3000 than $1800.
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  #30  
Old 06-10-2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
S320's are good cars, not to bad to work on.

Find a base one, without the self closing doors and other stuff that can break.
It would be difficult to pass on one in exceptional condition, low miles, and the right color interior/exterior...

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