It's a pretty easy job. I done 4 or 5 over the years. Around here the lines from the tank to the hot and cold pipes usually have a section of flexible copper pipe with threaded fittings. Might not be able to use flex gas lines depending on your jurisdiction. Denver requires solid lines. Cross the city line to Aurora and flex lines are required.
The drip might be condensation depending on the conditions.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

We (Douglas County) have all flex lines due to the floating basement floor. I don't know what would be required if it was installed elsewhere in the house.

Great information; thanks for all the help.

I am looking at the water heater (not hot water heater) website; did not know any such thing existed.

I've always thought AOs were pretty good. 7 years does seem a bit short for one of those.

Once I thought I had a bad heater (a client's) on my hands but it was one of the fittings on top that had gone bad, wasn't tight enough, I forget. I put in two new ones and it's still in place about a year later.

If those connections are good though, I'm thinking any other leak is unrepairable. I've found they drain well enough, you can roll them on their bottom circle with the top tilted at about 70 degrees to the floor. Use several layers of cardboard or pieces of plywood that you move along ahead of you though.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Yes, I am told it will weigh about 150 lbs empty. So I have to figure how to get it down a flight of stairs. A friend who has volunteered to help says we do not need to solder the hot and cold water pipes, that we can get flex pipes at Home Depot that will work. Maybe they use a compression fitting? I believe the gas is threaded and wonder if you use pipe tape on it?

Yes, there is specific tape for gas fittings, available at home depot.

To do that, if you have to pull a permit, bring the heater there, install it, get the old heater out and dispose it somewhere, it might explain the cost. Still, I'd check around and see what the going rate is.

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Gas fittings tape; good info. Thanks.

Shark bite fittings for the water pipes.

I believe the tape for Natural gas is yellow? Ber sure to read the label on the tape. It will specify if it for flamable gas.

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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K

Have you checked what the going rate of the job is? Did you ask what it included. You did mention that you didn't ask him to take the old heater away but he might have included the cost. I can dump my heater in the city dump but they will charge a few bucks to do it. In Hartford, appliances (I think this is it) costs about $15. Madison is $35. Not sure about your area.

Before you try to figure out what the job is worth, ask him EXACTLY what he will do for $400. Don't accept a vague answer. I had the people who delivered my gas fireplace give me a quote on the gas line. 22 feet at $X. Called the local gas company and they wanted TWICE what the other guy wanted. It seems like I was 1 foot over the limit for 1 guy so according to union rules, they have to bring 2 guys. I had to pay for both of them although it didn't make the work faster. Basically $350 or $750. Needless to say, I went with the $350 offer.

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Getting it down the stairs is easy. Leave it in the cardboard box and simply slide it down the stairs. Getting the old one out is more difficult. Give a couple of hefty teenage boys $20 apiece for carrying it up. I have a Lectro truck stair climbing dolly that works in these kind of situations.
If you have flex gas pipe between the black pipe and heater, no tape is needed if the male fittings are coned on each end. If you need tape, the gas tape is yellow or you can get gas pipe dope also.
It's also recommended to use dielectric nipples between the tank and the piping. They are available next to the hot water heaters at HD usually.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

By flex I'm guessing you mean PEX line, the stuff they use for radiant floor/potable water systems. Some sort of plastic with a fiber-belted structure of some sort. You can use one water heater for both radiant and household use with that stuff. Some people are big on it, I have a better gut feeling trust for copper, but the stuff does have its advantages. Can move around all sorts of obstacles quickly. You have to buy the crimper that goes with those type of fittings. I bouught a set that works with a large Vise Grip to apply the torque. Even those were $30 plus. A full tilt crimper is 3 figures IIRC.

Is that what some here are referring to as Sharkbite? That term has been used for several types, I think, copper among them, IINM. Is this right?

http://www.ctwoodfurnace.com/parts_pex.htm

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

PEX is the best thing out here, in my opinion-considering the installation time is 1/3 of installing copper water distribution lines. However- the start-up costs of buying the crimper tools, is prohibitive for the average homeowner who simply wants to install a water-heater.(The tools can be rented @ Home depot)
FLEX copper lines are easy to install betwwen the di-electric union, and the transition fitting from your existing copper lines.
Shark-bite fittings are excellent in this case.
I never bothered with 'yellow' teflon tape(white works fine)..but it may not have been an issue in my area.
Dont forget to put a thin line of 'pipe-dope' on the cup-seal @ your union.


If the tank is leaking from the bottom...(And you have ruled out it leaking @ the fittings)..the tank has to go.

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CHILCUTT~
The secret to a long life. Is knowing when it is time to leave.

I'm surprised a 7 year old Smith is leaking, we use those in everything and they hold up quite well. I'd replace it with the same thing, install is simple.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
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Since in my experience seldom is the glass lining providing total internal coverage. If it did lifespan of a tank would be a lot longer on average.

If you have slightly hard water lifespan can be short. Soft water present perhaps thirty years.