When it rains, it pours. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SwampYankee · #16 01-15-2011, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

That sucks, any vents or anything sticking through the roof?

Yeah, there are a few. There's a toilet vent in the vicinity. All brand new gasket flashings were used on all the through-roof fixtures.

I'm sure it's because of the water backing up behind the icedam. I'm pissed at myself for not clearing it right after the end of the storm. After 12 hours of plowing it just didn't register.

Hatterasguy · #17 01-15-2011, 10:19 PM

How much pitch is on it? Flat roofs are tough, might almost be better off with a membrane.

SwampYankee · #18 01-15-2011, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

How much pitch is on it? Flat roofs are tough, might almost be better off with a membrane.

I'm not sure, it's not flat but there's not a lot of pitch. Maybe 1' drop over 12'.

It's ironic that the crappy job lasted 10 years before it started leaking. Although we've never seen 22" in one shot either.

BobK · #19 01-17-2011, 08:20 AM

I have a bay section to our house. About 16' at its widest and sticks out about 8'. very little slope to it. Maybe 1' down for 8' out. Constant leak problem. Patched it several times. Couple months ago #1 son and I got up there and basically coated the whole thing with roof patch and then pressed a blue tarp into the goo, covering the whole roof. Just something to get us through till spring. So far it is holding even with all the snow, I'm going to have one of those ice guard membranes put on the whole thing and a standing-seam metal roof over it. Killer is I have box gutter$ and they will need to be rebuilt. Actually, box gutter$ on the whole house need to be rebuilt. Previous owner did not really do the maintenance on them and they are all shot. Not all going to happen at one time. Bay section first. Then soon after, will have to redo the wrap-around porch roof and gutters (and rebuild the wodows' walk). Finally when finances recover, redo the rest of the house.

SwampYankee · #20 01-17-2011, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobK

I have a bay section to our house. About 16' at its widest and sticks out about 8'. very little slope to it. Maybe 1' down for 8' out. Constant leak problem. Patched it several times. Couple months ago #1 son and I got up there and basically coated the whole thing with roof patch and then pressed a blue tarp into the goo, covering the whole roof. Just something to get us through till spring. So far it is holding even with all the snow, I'm going to have one of those ice guard membranes put on the whole thing and a standing-seam metal roof over it. Killer is I have box gutter$ and they will need to be rebuilt. Actually, box gutter$ on the whole house need to be rebuilt. Previous owner did not really do the maintenance on them and they are all shot. Not all going to happen at one time. Bay section first. Then soon after, will have to redo the wrap-around porch roof and gutters (and rebuild the wodows' walk). Finally when finances recover, redo the rest of the house.

The icedam was 4" thick and 2' wide at the edge. Needless to say the 3' wide ice/water barrier wasn't enough since the water was puddling well past it. This really was a once-or-twice in a lifetime storm for us so it probably would never have been an issue any other time. The roofer spent an hour removing all the snow from the dormer, chipping away the dam in one section and some cut-outs across the back so it could drain. Even though it's a rare thing for us, I think I'll go buy some of that heating cable and run it across the back. If I had patched/repaired the ceiling I would have really been pissed. If I'm in this house long enough to need to replace the roof again, I'm going to go with the rubber membrane rather than traditional methods. Hindsight of course being 20-20.

t walgamuth · #21 01-17-2011, 08:49 AM

Rubber, either as roofing or as ice and gutter shield should really go all the way to the ridge.

Sorry to hear you are having this trouble.

t walgamuth · #22 01-17-2011, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgburg

Probably not. It probably was a Union job.

Cheaper materials, shoddy work, not enough breaks and MILLER TIME!!!

Actually, unions in the building trades have very very excellent training which takes years. To get your credentials in the carpentry union is an accomplishment. If a contractor chooses to supply shoddy materials, no matter how skilled his carpenters may be it will be a problem.

SwampYankee · #23 01-17-2011, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Rubber, either as roofing or as ice and gutter shield should really go all the way to the ridge.

Sorry to hear you are having this trouble.

Considering there wasn't any used on the previous roof, I'm amazed that it wasn't and issue before! But then again, I've never had icedams form on that section before either. We usually get 4-6" at a time and with as little insulation as there is, it usually melts right off.

catmandoo62 · #24 01-17-2011, 09:12 AM

my girlfriends old house had a really shallow pitched roof in front that was probably a 1x12 pitch for about 12 ft then it pitched up alittle more at about a 3x12 pitch,i ran the ice guard to just above where the pitch changed and never had issues.one other thing about the iceguard.if you ever need to deaden sound somewhere it works great and it's a hell of a lot cheaper the dynamat.

The Clk Man · #25 01-17-2011, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

Or at least when the roof leaks, it pours.

I just had the roof replaced on our shed dormer, in fact, they just finished it last week. The original job wasn't done well and attempts to repair it, DIY and professionally, weren't completely successful so I figured I'd have it stripped to the sheathing and done right. It's barely pitched so I've always worried about drainage even though it hadn't been an issue until recently.

22 inches of snow later, and the subsequent icedams, and I've got water coming in the house. I'm sure it's because of the icedams. I have a roof rake and pulled off as much as i could but the roof is just too high at that point that I really couldn't do much more than pull it away from the very edge due to the angle of the rake.

The roofing guy is coming out first thing tomorrow morning to try to clear the ice before we get the sleet and rain forecast for mid-week.

I guess on the positive side, at least I haven't gotten around to replacing and fixing the stained ceiling yet.

BILL!!! use a torch down rubber roof, it works well on a semi flat roof.

Mistress · #26 01-17-2011, 10:39 AM

swamp, I'm sorry this has happened. Igloo time?

mgburg · #27 01-17-2011, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Actually, unions in the building trades have very very excellent training which takes years. To get your credentials in the carpentry union is an accomplishment. If a contractor chooses to supply shoddy materials, no matter how skilled his carpenters may be it will be a problem.

I know...just jerking the chain to put some sorta' levity in this situation...what little there can be.

It looks like this was a result of the "perfect storm" of circumstances more than anything else.

Nary' an issue with the roof for what...like 12-15 years? Then, the Nor-easter that dumps and particially thaws some 20+ inches of snow...then snows some more? And you're looking at rain/sleet coming right after this?

Sometimes, just walking on a roof like that can "pre-crack" it just enough that the normal cycling of thawing/freezing will open the cracks up all the way to allow the water to come in.

My transmitter building in Colfax has a rubber membrane that's covered with 1" concrete tiles and yet, since 1995, I've had 3 repairs done to it so far. Part of the problem lies in the fact that there's this little 499' foot TV tower about 40' to the south of the building and when the tower "ices up" - eventually, a southern breeze will thaw the ice and then we have this "little shower" of ice shards (about 2'-4' in length and 1/2" or better in thickness) "raining down" on all that stand/lay in its path. Helmets, Carharts and the like are no match for this. And the concrete tiles are shattered on a yearly basis. The shards that do the most damage are the ones that contact the surface(s) like an arrow...straight in. The other ones that contact laying flat look worse when they hit b/c of the "exploding/shattering" effect, but their energy is spread over a much wider area and don't do as much (

) damage.

HOWEVER...

You, as a person, don't want either scenario to effect your own person...it hurts/terminates the same...either way.