I hope someone with more electrical knowledge than me can help with a problem.


I've got a power recepticle that has failed - do these things just fail on their own? I've verified that I have power going into the recepticle, and the other recepticles on the circuit all work properly. I've had the power off at the panel for this circuit a few times over the past day as I've been changing other recepticles on the circuit. But this one has been in place for over a year with no problems.

Is it just a bad recepticle? Did I somehow blow it by turning the circuit breaker off and on several times?

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Jonathan

2011 Mazda2
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1994 C280 (retired)

ive seen cheap ones get the terminal spread too far and not spring back. If youve been poking round probe leads in it will accellerate the process. If you have power at the wires and not at the plug then likely it is overspread and needs replaced. It is hard to find decent recepticles anymore. I put 20A ones in my house because they grip tighter on the plug blades

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

If you have 120V at the wires going to the recep than just replace the recep. Don't use the push in connections as they are prone to failure. wrap the wires around the screws and make sure they are tight in a clockwise direction. A good spec grade recep will cost a couple bucks as compared to the 49 cent cheapies that wear out quickly. Remember to turn off the power before you work on the circuit!

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1984 300TD 1981 240D

Thanks guys. I'll just chalk it up to a cheap recepticle and replace it.

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Jonathan

2011 Mazda2
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1994 C280 (retired)

I like that suggestion about using the twenty amp recepticals. For the uninformed they have a small detent off one of the plug terminals to identify them. Of course just do this in your own abode if all the wiring is 12 gauge. . Fourteen gauge wire is only rated at 15 amps so they should not really be used.

As for the originator of this thread you do own at least a test bulb or meter? today it really pay to own at least a cheap digital meter and they are cheap.

One IMPORTANT NOTE you should take to heart...BE SURE that the 120-volt feed (Red or Black wire) to that receptical goes to the side that has the short/narrow slot, not the long one.

The long-slotted side should get the Neutral (usually WHITE) wire and obviously, the ground (green) goes to the ground side.

'Nuff said...

GL!

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M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125
.
“I didn’t really say everything I said.”
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~

ABSOLUTELY!!!

You must wire them correctly. Swapping hot and neutral can be disastrous.

I don't want to sound alarmist but people do die because of these mistakes.

Go to the hardware store. Spend $5. Buy a plug tester, orange block with three (maybe two) neon lights. Plug it in every one of your sockets. Find out if your grounds are good, if you hot and neutral are swapped, etc.

It's $5. Small $$ for useful information.

It's probably backstabbed. The NEC used to allow #12 backstabbed connections but those tended to fail a lot. #14 is allowed since those won't fail as often. The spring that holds the wire in place is big enough for #14 but since the construction work on houses is often rushed and the boxes tend to not sit flush, whoever is building the house will tend to put the faceplate on so it looks flush, which lets the receptacle wiggle around and #12 wire is big/rigid enough to either break the spring retention mechanism or pull itself out.

Long story short, when in doubt, side-wire, and if the box isn't flush with the drywall go get a pack of spacers from a hardware store so the receptacle won't be bouncing around in there.

NEVER use the push in's.
They are quick and easy to use AND FAIL.
Even if they don't fail I've seen them loosen and rattle, this causes arcing and can damage electronics.

One rule I use too, always tape up the outlet, one or two wraps around covering the screws.
I've had enough spark putting them in or taking out.
I'm one of those crazy fools that doesn't always turn off power, but I was taught by a very qualified electrician, and I am VERY careful.

Always wanted to see what I looked like with a Fro too !!!

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KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

Meter shmeter!!!

Just lick the leads to determine which one's hot!

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

A man after my own heart!

I occasionally put on rubber gloves and just wing it when it's minor doings and finding the correct breaker would be a pain. I've worked on houses with 3 different panels and tracking it down can be tough. One time, I went the cowboy route and intentionally shorted it to trip the breaker then I had trouble finding the box. The third box.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

No gloves, just VERY Careful.

Heck I did some exterior lighting at a place in the rain. Call me crazy, YOU'RE RIGHT.
Just a gentle drizzle and part of it was under a canopy (leaky canopy), but we couldn't find the breaker.

PS I have an electrician friend that does touch the wires to check them, he's been burned slightly a time or two, but never really zapped.

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KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

If it's just swapping new wires in with wire nuts, I'll do it live w/o gloves. Gloves just make it less nerve-wracking. Once or twice I've gotten stung with 110 in a way that really got my attention. Usually not bad but it is important to remember that even 110 can kill you.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I wire in the new/replacement ballasts in flourescent fixtures (4' and 8') at work all the time with the circuit running...the important thing when doing that is two-fold...

#1.) Make sure you disconnect the hot lead first and wirenut the end and tuck it OUT OF THE WAY of all the other wiring your futzing (sp?) with...

#2.) Then, I snip off and wire back up all the OTHER WIRES before going after the hot lead LAST.

The important thing in all of this is: IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THE JOB YOURSELF, GET AN EXPERT IN THERE...FAST! Make sure that whoever you have doing ANY work for you is licensed/bonded and insured.

Otherwise, your abode is theirs...or at least, the attorney they/their survivors' have hired. Even if your SOB BIL/SIL's bro. is on the job. And for Dog's sake, if ANY alcohol has been near/consumed/thought of, DO NOT EVEN GO NEAR THE AC PANEL OR SOCKETS. (I've already discussed the repercussions on that circumstance...)

__________________

M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125
.
“I didn’t really say everything I said.”
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~