I have a Black and Decker variable speed drill with the traditional "key" chuck. The teeth have worn down to the point where it is quite difficult to tighten the bit properly.

Is it possible to replace the worn out ring (the ring of teeth where the key contacts) or is the whole drill a goner now?

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Ben
1987 190d 2.5Turbo

I don't know if you can replace just the ring, but you can replace the chuck fairly easily. Open the jaws all the way and there is a screw at the bottom that holds the chuck on. The last one I did was a left hand thread (figured it out after I broke it off!)

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1984 300TD 1981 240D

good advice. thanks!! I will replace it with a keyless chuck

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Ben
1987 190d 2.5Turbo

X2
Just replace the chuck. Best avoid key-less chucks, They tend to be very hobby quality.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Jamb the motor with a piece of round metal stock about 3mm dia. My old B&D had a fan that was easy to lock with a straight piece of bar.

Put chuck key in chuck with arms running the length of the drill.

Smack the chuck key with your (gloved) hand. Hope you worked out the correct thread hand LH or RH.

Fit new chuck.

I'm not a fan of keyless chucks as sometimes you just cant get them tight enough to keep the bit from slipping.

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1984 300TD 1981 240D

Agree replace the chuck.

Keyed or Keyless ?

Is this your active drill, the one you use regularly ?
Do you have another keyed chuck drill ?

I have both, for the reasons above, the keyless though is so convienent for regular use, but sometimes you need the keyed version for heavy duty drilling etc.

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KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

it will do heavy drilling.

my wife's civic has warped rotors that have a 2 philips screws keeping them on. I have rounded the screw heads in my attempt to remove. (a lousy Honda design to put screws in an area prone to rust and high heat).

I will have to drill then screws out.

I will just replace the chuck with the traditional key type and not the keyless type. thanks to all who chimed in.

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Ben
1987 190d 2.5Turbo

You should use an impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to remove those brake rotor retaining screws...

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Yes!
But, drilling them out works ok too after you ruin them. Plenty of them running around without the retainer screws. It was just to keep the rotors from falling off on the line.

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I go either way on keyless chucks, for a light duty drill anyway. My half-inch-chuck hammer drill has to be a keyed chuck. I use a Sioux stubby drill for a daily driver. The keyless chuck is longer than the keyed on this model and sorta hinders the main advantage of it.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K