Ignition question. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tbomachines · #16 01-25-2012, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jplinville

Yup...go to the parts house and put out the $15 for a repair manual and $20 for the new mechanism and study it...

This. I sold a ton of GM ignitions (both switches and tumblers) when I worked in a parts store. Cheap and easy

The Official H-Body Internet Community • View topic - Ignition switch removal

How to remove switch without key:

Quote:

Remove the steering wheel, and pull the turn
signal switch out of postion. under that you will see a
screw by the tumbler(thats what you want to remove
right?) most of the time this screw is 1/2 covered by a
set of contacts in a piece of plastic. You need to
pull that straight out then remove the screw. after
that screw is removed, you can pull the tumbler right
out with or without key. Then you can re-install it
and go cruzin'!!

The Official H-Body Internet Community • View topic - Ignition cylinder removal

Quote:

This is direct quote from the Chevrolet
manual.

Inserta a small screw driver or similar tool into the
turn signal housing slot as shown in figure B-62.(I
will describe this at the end)Keeping the tool to the
right side o fthe slot, break the housing flash loose
and at the same time depress the spring latch at the
lower end of the lock cylinder. with the latch
depressed the lock cylinder can be removed from the
housing.

There are 2 slots side by side just below the upper
right screw hole that hold the turn signal cam on. You
want to stick the screwdriver into the slot on the
right.

In the picture they are using a small
machinists ruler to remove the casting flasha and depress
the spring. This is how I did mine when I swapped the
cylinder from my non tilt column to the new tilt column,
Because I was having dificulty getting a screwdriver to
do the trick.

It will probably take you
several tries to get the spring depressed.

jplinville · #17 01-25-2012, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jplinville

There should be a small hole under the ignition. Put the key in the tumbler, and turn to the ACC position. Insert a small pin in the hole and pull the whole mechanism out. Part shouldn't be more than $20 at Autozone. Replacement is the reverse.

Ignore this advise...I'm in the hospital right now and didn't read the thread completely.

On the Olds, you will have to remove the steering wheel. Follow the directions in the book, and lay out all the small parts as you take them off. This should be an easy job, about an hour or less of your time.

The Clk Man · #18 01-25-2012, 10:24 PM

The car has a tilt steering wheel, does that change anything?

iwrock · #19 01-26-2012, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Clk Man

I will do that, thanks jp.

Lol go get the manual!

You have a daughter eh...?

MS Fowler · #20 01-26-2012, 07:36 AM

IIRC, the switch is easy to replace if you have a working key. It is possible, although more difficult w/o the key.
The maker's manual will be your guide ( as in all things).

The Clk Man · #21 01-26-2012, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

Lol go get the manual!

You have a daughter eh...?

Yes I do. She is 26 yo 5'8" 125 lbs. And she is the prettiest woman you will ever see. Why do you ask?

Can't Know · #22 01-26-2012, 12:01 PM

Go to autozone, buy the new lock cylinder (it comes with two keys) and rent the steering wheel puller (they'll refund the rental when you return it).

The lock cylinder is about $15 and comes with instructions on changing it. If you are lazy it's an hour job.

No difference if you have a tilt-wheel.

tbomachines · #23 01-26-2012, 12:36 PM

No need for manual, just cruise the H body forums. They're generally just as good as PP for this sort of advice. See links/quotes I threw in above.

The Clk Man · #24 01-26-2012, 07:23 PM

Too late, he went all Redneck Engineering on the ignition.

catmandoo62 · #25 01-26-2012, 07:39 PM

boy you can sure tell you guys have never worked on a GM column.after removing the steering wheel you will need a special tool to depress the spring on the lock plate,this is the plate right under the wheel and it has notches all the way around it.once depressed you have to fish a c clip out from around the steering shaft(this can be a pain in the ass and take some time and patience)once removed,pull the plastic trim from under the column and reach up under the dash along the column on the right side and push the turn signal harness up and free from it's tangs.then you can pull the turn sig switch up but beings it has a tilt wheel you will have to take the tang with a roller on the end off the switch(when you get here if you flip the turn sig lever back and forth you will see the tang i am talking about and you will also have to take the 4 way flasher knob off.then you can pull up on the turn sig switch enough to fish the screw out.i have had literally thousands of these apart.also if your tilt mechanism is loose let me know and i'll tell you a way to tighten it up without pullong the whole column apart.

The Clk Man · #26 01-26-2012, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catmandoo62

boy you can sure tell you guys have never worked on a GM column.after removing the steering wheel you will need a special tool to depress the spring on the lock plate,this is the plate right under the wheel and it has notches all the way around it.once depressed you have to fish a c clip out from around the steering shaft(this can be a pain in the ass and take some time and patience)once removed,pull the plastic trim from under the column and reach up under the dash along the column on the right side and push the turn signal harness up and free from it's tangs.then you can pull the turn sig switch up but beings it has a tilt wheel you will have to take the tang with a roller on the end off the switch(when you get here if you flip the turn sig lever back and forth you will see the tang i am talking about and you will also have to take the 4 way flasher knob off.then you can pull up on the turn sig switch enough to fish the screw out.i have had literally thousands of these apart.also if your tilt mechanism is loose let me know and i'll tell you a way to tighten it up without pullong the whole column apart.

Ha ha, you said Tang.

iwrock · #27 01-26-2012, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Clk Man

Yes I do. She is 26 yo 5'8" 125 lbs. And she is the prettiest woman you will ever see. Why do you ask?

Curious. Thats all.

The Clk Man · #28 01-26-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

Curious. Thats all.

Are you sure?

Can't Know · #29 01-26-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catmandoo62

boy you can sure tell you guys have never worked on a GM column.after removing the steering wheel you will need a special tool to depress the spring on the lock plate,this is the plate right under the wheel and it has notches all the way around it.once depressed you have to fish a c clip out from around the steering shaft(this can be a pain in the ass and take some time and patience)once removed,pull the plastic trim from under the column and reach up under the dash along the column on the right side and push the turn signal harness up and free from it's tangs.then you can pull the turn sig switch up but beings it has a tilt wheel you will have to take the tang with a roller on the end off the switch(when you get here if you flip the turn sig lever back and forth you will see the tang i am talking about and you will also have to take the 4 way flasher knob off.then you can pull up on the turn sig switch enough to fish the screw out.i have had literally thousands of these apart.also if your tilt mechanism is loose let me know and i'll tell you a way to tighten it up without pullong the whole column apart.

The plate can be a pain, but you don't need the special tool if you have strong hands. I did this exact job last summer when I borrowed an old blazer from a friend and the lock cylinder failed. I did exactly what I posted, I bought the switch at autozone (curiously the black cylinder was $1 more than the chrome...), rented the puller and had the job done in about forty minutes. It took longer to drive to and from autozone than it did to effect the repair.

But you raise a valid point, I believe autozone has the tool for the plate and you can rent that at the same time. It does make it easier.

Of course, other parts stores have a tool rental program, but I know autozone does, which is why I suggested them.