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  #1  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Yep, surprising what some roofers can make when they charge "retail".

Be clear about the fact that my guy, with two helpers, can easily rip and replace 15 squares in one day, provided they can walk the roof.

On this house, they busted their asses...........ripping all the cedar, hoisting all the plywood up 25 feet, laying down plywood, paper, and ice and water shield, laying the 17 square. It took six guys to do the job and they split it over two days, working about six hours per day (it was in late June and the temperature was up).

I got a damn good deal on the labor because I know him.
thats crazy, what they charged Kerry's insurance seems like it borders on fraud personally. Im surprised an adjuster signed off on that price.

I don't want to spend that kind of money on this little cabin, I was thinking a comfortable weekend of relaxing hammering and ripping shingle with the GF, also with lemonade and sandwiches eaten in the shade.

maybe with a few friends roped in to help, followed by running down the street and jumping in the lake.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:56 PM
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Are you in an area with enforced building codes? If not, and Brian's description of a lattice underlayer is correct, you could avoid the sheathing step and simply put raised panel roofing on top of the lattice.
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Are you in an area with enforced building codes? If not, and Brian's description of a lattice underlayer is correct, you could avoid the sheathing step and simply put raised panel roofing on top of the lattice.
im definitely in an area with enforced building codes, another thing im considering though is insulating while I do this?

Ill explain, so the large space around the central stove was originally a nearly 1.5 story peaked structure with rafters and the peaked roof above. One of the residents installed a drop ceiling for insulation, and above is quite literally a farmer constructed roof steeped in history.

What id like to do is knock out the drop ceiling, and expose the old structure of the building.

I dont want to lose the insulation of the drop ceiling though, so I was wondering if it made sense to remove the existing roof, put down plywood on the lattice, or whatever's there, install 2.4s on the outside of the plywood, and put in insulation, then cover that with plywood, and roof over that.
Right now im just talking out of my *** saying whatever seems reasonable, I have no idea whats acceptable or legal.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
im definitely in an area with enforced building codes, another thing im considering though is insulating while I do this?

Ill explain, so the large space around the central stove was originally a nearly 1.5 story peaked structure with rafters and the peaked roof above. One of the residents installed a drop ceiling for insulation, and above is quite literally a farmer constructed roof steeped in history.

What id like to do is knock out the drop ceiling, and expose the old structure of the building.

I dont want to lose the insulation of the drop ceiling though, so I was wondering if it made sense to remove the existing roof, put down plywood on the lattice, or whatever's there, install 2.4s on the outside of the plywood, and put in insulation, then cover that with plywood, and roof over that.
Right now im just talking out of my *** saying whatever seems reasonable, I have no idea whats acceptable or legal.
I don't think that will meet code.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #5  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:11 PM
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I don't think that will meet code.
research time then. Monday inspection will be done, and I can see if im serious
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:07 PM
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No, that price was for architectural asphalt shingles. 3 tabs shingles removed, sheathing put down and new shingles put down. Outrageous in my opinion but paid by the insurance company.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
No, that price was for architectural asphalt shingles. 3 tabs shingles removed, sheathing put down and new shingles put down. Outrageous in my opinion but paid by the insurance company.
that does seem like an outrageous price! 1000 bucks a square foot? No damage to the structure?
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
that does seem like an outrageous price! 1000 bucks a square foot? No damage to the structure?
1000.00 a square. A square of roofing is 100 square feet. Yes it is high but when insurance companies and contractors are involved anything goes.

As a do it yoursel project it would not be too bad usually. A lot of your decisions wil have to wait until you know what is there first. On older structures the existance or lack of rot is always a concern.

Since it is hard to ventilate an old roof like that and for many other reasons metal roofs when allowed are the way to go. Asthetically sometimes pleasing and sometimes not. Cost about twice at my location compared to doing shingles. Thats if there are no complications like you may experience providing a substrate for synthetic shingles.

Then both systems might be about par. Low installation time with metal and moss growth etc as an issue is no longer an issue. Not properly vented will usually not hurt steel roofing either.

Roof insulation can be planned in as well in one way or another as I agree if the tie collars are well engineered pull the false ceiling. Really opens things up. There are many ways to insulate inside as well. Gyprock and put false beam type rafters spaced four feet apart for example over it. A couple of inches of foam insulation on the roof or 1 1/2 inch stuff is really not enough if you intend to live there year round.

Although I do not know how cold it gets there. Energy prices will always trend upwards in my opinion for the remainder of your life .So plan for how long you want to reside there probably and plan renovations that take that into consideration.

Just looked at the picture. To pull that ceiling will become a major makeover. The place looks in decent shape inside so it would be quite a job. I probably would not pull the ceiling because of that. Especially if you have to farm much of the work out. From an economic perspective it may not be dollars well spent to rip and tear in there.

Quality and taste of the water supply is also always something to examine plus the state of the septic system. Most so called home inspections are or do raise issues of the ability and true understanding of the person doing them.

There is little doubt in my mind that you can probably replace the roof yourself. Or have some friends with past experience help you out. It is a small roof.

Last edited by barry123400; 07-20-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:15 PM
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No structural work. gutters were replace since they were fastened to the lower shingles and had to be unfastened to remove the existing shingles.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:18 PM
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The place sounds really cool. You should post some pictures.

You might be able to insulate the top of the roof if you use metal. Put sheets of insulation down and screw the metal panels through the insulation into the wood below. Again, that may not satisfy code. I know modified roofs are often put down over insulation sheets though. most of those are flat or close to it.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #11  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
The place sounds really cool. You should post some pictures.

You might be able to insulate the top of the roof if you use metal. Put sheets of insulation down and screw the metal panels through the insulation into the wood below. Again, that may not satisfy code. I know modified roofs are often put down over insulation sheets though. most of those are flat or close to it.
heres a pic-



ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
heres a pic-



ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.
Very nice. That would be an extremely easy roof to install metal roofing. Having done it on my own house myself, I'd recommend it. Not sure about the aesthetics of it. I'd try photoshopping to see the appearance.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Very nice. That would be an extremely easy roof to install metal roofing. Having done it on my own house myself, I'd recommend it. Not sure about the aesthetics of it. I'd try photoshopping to see the appearance.
I agree, straight everything, with an overhang, and no gutters. Ill try photoshop, though metal might be out of the budget currently. Need to get up there with a tape measure and see what im looking at for materials.

Of a more pressing concern is damage to the opposite wall from this pic. A sliding door was installed, and its got some rot issues.

Whats attractive to me about this house though, is the simplicity. Its like a 240D of homes. No hidden compartments, you can get under every section of the floor since its up on a stone foundation, and all piping and wiring underneath is totally accessible.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:55 PM
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heres a pic-



ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.
That's a beauty.

As for insulation, I vote for some sort of above-roof rigid insulation or a gyp-board ceiling under the rafters matching the slant of the roof with insulation in between the ceiling and roof. Of course, I don't know poop about insulation.

Great project.
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2012, 05:03 PM
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If you want to preserve the sheathing under the existing roof, after stripping the cedar off, install SIPs (structural insulated panels) on the roof deck and shingle over them. Fine Homebuilding magazine has some articles on using them, I'll check when I get home from work which issue it was in.
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