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  #1  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:21 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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urgent: chevy brake bleeding question

Girlfriends '97 chevy malibu is leaking brake fluid from the left rear drum's bleed port. There is no bleed nipple just a rubber plug. I did not remove the plug but I am curious as to how its removed so I can I guess go buy bleed nipples for it.

anyone? The plug doesn't unscrew and I don't want to yank it out unless someone else can verify that is how its removed. You never know with these things.

thanks guys

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  #2  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:30 PM
Inna-propriate-da-vida
 
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Not familiar with the Malibu, but typically the bleeder is located on the backing plate next to where the brake line enters.

Rubber plug lower on the plate should be a cover for the adjustment wheel.

If it's leaking fluid, chances are it needs a new cylinder.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:37 PM
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I took the wheel off and the drum and the rubber plug I found was just a plug. The bleeder is where you said it would be.

I had Megan pump the brakes and fluid squirted out of the wheel cylinder. So I think I found the problem. I think I am going to have to replace both left and right rear(this is on the right)

Plus might as well do the pads and drums since they probably have never been done.

I've never worked with drum brakes.... help?
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  #4  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:42 PM
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Always do one side of a drum brake a a time. You need the other as a guide on how to put it back together. I've done a lot of drums, they're a PITA - may as well put in new shoes while you're at it as you have to disassemble most all of it to get at the cylinder.
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:43 PM
Inna-propriate-da-vida
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I took the wheel off and the drum and the rubber plug I found was just a plug. The bleeder is where you said it would be.

I had Megan pump the brakes and fluid squirted out of the wheel cylinder. So I think I found the problem. I think I am going to have to replace both left and right rear(this is on the right)

Plus might as well do the pads and drums since they probably have never been done.

I've never worked with drum brakes.... help?
It's all pretty straightforward, but do yourself a huge favor and complete one side before taking apart the other. Really helpful to have one that is still complete when you start reassembling.

Shoes, drums, cylinders and even a spring kit if they have one should be pretty reasonable on that car. Definitely do both sides.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif
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  #6  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:46 PM
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I was going to do the following since they probably need to be done

Shoes
Drums
Wheel cylinders
springs
Fluid change

Of course one side at a time


It doesn't look straightforward to me but its a drum brake, they should all be very similar so a google search should help.


the website for advanced doesn't show any sort of spring it. Just a drum brake bar.
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  #7  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:54 PM
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The special tool for reattaching the springs is useful. Can be done with pliers but it's harder.
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  #8  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:55 PM
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I just saw that. Well I guess I shall pick one up too, its like $5 at the store

$136 for parts, $30 off code.. done! Just need fluid, hose for the bleeder nipple, and line wrenches.
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  #9  
Old 10-15-2012, 04:03 PM
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Wear safety glasses. The springs like to go flying sometimes.
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  #10  
Old 10-15-2012, 04:49 PM
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Check.

So I have no idea which bolt is the primary spring keeper. Pic coming soon
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  #11  
Old 10-15-2012, 04:59 PM
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So there are these weird bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in place and I'm guessing the return spring for the shoes. It's a star shaped thing and the bolts for the wheel cylinder are stupid hard to get to. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1350334766.218661.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	25.6 KB
ID:	106384. I think that bolt you see is what holds the return spring in place. Its the only bolt in the whole drum system

its an effing e-torx


and it looks like the only way to remove the wheel cylinder is to after removing the brake shoes and etc is to remove 4 bolts that the whole assembly bolts to the carrier with (including the hub) and then I can remove the wheel cylinder while on the bench and replace it and go from there. I really hate wasting my time getting tools.

I don't even need the line wrenches, the brake line has a banjo type fitting with a regular bolt.

Last edited by TheDon; 10-15-2012 at 05:14 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2012, 05:36 PM
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Is this your first brake drum job TheDon? You will be ready to get rid of the Chebby after you do 'em. I hope it is a strong relationship.
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2012, 05:47 PM
Inna-propriate-da-vida
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Is this your first brake drum job TheDon? You will be ready to get rid of the Chebby after you do 'em. I hope it is a strong relationship.
Ah, they're not so bad... My first car had drums all the way around...
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Is this your first brake drum job TheDon? You will be ready to get rid of the Chebby after you do 'em. I hope it is a strong relationship.
Tips or tricks on this?
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2012, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
The special tool for reattaching the springs is useful.
Only thing I know that will make it easier.

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