I have a rental condo in a West Coast city that doesn't get particularly cold for a long period of time, but with (very) occasional spells below freezing. It's heated using two resistive type fan/coil electric heaters made by Thermador.

The A/C unit looks to be late-70s/early-80s vintage GE, beat up to hell and back, and I don't want to hear about it when it's rented , so I'm aiming to replace it while I do some other repairs. I'm looking at the following unit, which appears to fit the existing GE sleeve.

http://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-FRA12EHT2-Through-Conditioner-Supplemental/dp/B004P8K37S

A few questions:
(1) "Supplemental heat" -- is this thing actually an air-cycle heat pump in addition to an A/C unit, or does it just heat using resistive coils? If it's the former, I could ask the tenant to mainly heat with the unit -- more efficient and a bit safer. I'd keep the heaters for emergencies or really cold weather.
(2) Has anyone had experience with the unit, good or bad?
(3) Any other recommendations for package heat pumps under about $700? W x H cannot exceed 25 x 14.5, and it should be a 230V unit.
(4) Lastly, how does one remove the old G.E. unit from its sleeve?! This isn't readily apparent.

1. No, its an Air conditioner with resistance heat. If it were a heat pump it would say so.
2 and 3 no experience with it or a similar unit.
4. Should be able to do it with hand tools if as you say the dimensions are favorable. If you cannot get the exact size desired better to go smaller probably, though if its a frame wall making the hole bigger is fairly doable too.

I should think you could get a similar system which is a heat pump for a couple hundred more and it'll be much more economical to operate.

I have used a couple of little split systems in my building for my two smallest apartments. Made by Mitsubishi they have a small inside unit which hangs on the wall, about the size of a large violin case with a remote control device like for a tv, and an outside unit which is the size and shape of a large suitcase. They require a line set of copper just like the big one in a typical house. it cost about $1400 IIRC and prolly another $5 to 600 to install. They have been in for about 10 years now and are working fine.
I think they are around 1.5 ton but I imagine you can get them up to 3 ton or so. (A ton being 12,000 BTU).

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I would not rely on the resistance heat for any long term heating needs because of the cost.

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Jim

I've had resistance heat for the last four and a half years. My highest electric bill has been $90 one unusually cold december, and tends to be $60-70 during most winters. My bills in the summer (no aircon) are $25-30.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Well, those are some impressively low bills. You apparently have either a very small house or the electricity is very very inexpensive.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

One bedroom. And in the heating season I keep the thermostat around 63.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

Good work!

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Update: looked at the circuit diagram on Frigidaire's site -- resistance coil heat only. Annoying 'cos Amazon specifically says "heat pump" in their description. I went ahead and ordered the cooling only model, since the condo already has two resistance heaters.

Interestingly, Amana actually DOES make a heat-pump/miniature PTAC that fits in a normal-sized wall sleeve. Trouble is that it's 15 3/8" tall, and my sleeve was a bit under 15" tall. Changing the sleeve wasn't an option since HOA approval, permits, plans, etc would have been required -- not cost-effective IMHO.

Amana AH123E35AXAA 11,600 BTU Room Air Conditioner with 10,300 BTU Heat Pump Capacity, Electric Heat Backup, 280 CFM, Electronic Touchpad, Remote Control, 9.5 Energy Efficiency Ratio and R-410A Refrigerant

did you look at Grainger?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I dug down in to the detailed description and found this:

"• Supplemental heat pump provides an additional heat source to your main heat source when outdoor temperatures are above 45°F"

To answer your #4, the large AC unit in my shop just has a slide out handle. Once you remove the front cover, the handle is on the bottom of the insert. On mine, nothing but the weight is holding it in but takes a pretty strong pull to get it moving.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Heat pumps use about a third of the energy resistance heaters use? Air to air heat pumps probably maintain their initial efficiency? I guess closed loop in ground systems do as well but not open loops. Energy is expensive where I live so you have to look at everything.

I don't know where they got the description (not from the manufacturer), because it's wrong. Resistance heat only, no pump

When the efficiency drops so far down some air to air units switch from the heat pump to built in resistance heaters to provide some useful heat was my understanding.

Would be an absolute requirement in my Canadian climate if it where the only heat source. I have shied away from them for the time being as the only really practical one in my climate would be a ground loop. Air to air just will not cut it during low temperatures here.

This unit is resistance-heat only, no heat pumping capability. I checked and am absolutely sure.

Heatpump are the only way to go, versus the resistance deal. I've saved a fortune in power bills in the 12-years I converted to heatpump for my home.

The heatpump water heater was a good move too, versus the conventional electric water heater.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert