So I've never messed with soldering stuff together and I need to make a DIY version of a LED lenser V24

So I bought a 4 watt 9.3v LED (CL L251 C4N1 C)

A kit with
A resister ( yellow,gold,gold,black,orange) <- color bands
Mofset (LM317T CC12CVW)
Heat sink

I forgot to get a switch and battery holder

Soooo could someone help me out with a schematic? Also, I'm a bit nervous soldering leads onto the LED. It's a flat thing....

I've soldered leads on to LED's to make anchor lights. Not a big deal. Mine must have had resistors built in. I didn't have to mess with them.

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Soldering is pretty straight forward, clean the solder pads with a pencil eraser, make sure you use non-corrosive flux, usually it is best to "tin" the parts before attempting to stick them together, on semi-conductor leads use a heat sink, position the parts together, heat them all with a well tinned iron tip, and don't move things or let things move for a couple seconds after bringing the work up to enough heat to flow the solder. Use a grounding strap when handling semi-conductors.

With that LED it's actually a module, sort of a mini PC board, pretty robust because it acts in part as a heat sink under operation. Make sure you observe the polarity requirements even a momentary polarity will fry it. In you design depending on how much power operation you anticipate you should consider mounting the module on some type of aluminum heat sink.

As far as some type of drive circuit I'm surprised you didn't get one from whoever put the kit together. But the best place to start looking is the device Data Sheets and you might very well find related device Application Notes from the manufacturer, just Google the device number and that should start you in the right direction. Looks like that emitting device is a Citizen device made in Japan

http://www.light.fi/assets/files/CL-L251-C4N1-C_P1170_0511_R1(0711)_E.pdf

I bought the stuff for the drive circuit. That's what the MOSFET and resister are for. Plus the MOSFET has a heat sink to attach to it.

Don't sweat the soldering (no pun intended for the plumbers here) it's easy. And not to worry if you screw up LEDs are dirt cheap to replace. Don't over-flux either, just a tiny bit is enough to chemically bond the solder and lead.


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If you don't have a drive circuit design and schematic how did you decide to but those particular components? Usually the circuit is designed specifying components, a schematic is produced specifying connections then the spec'd components are sourced.

If you don't know already the MOSFET is essentially an electronic valve that in combination with the current limiting resistor meters the current to drive the LED. That is why there is usually a heat sink for the MOSFET it gets hot with current flowing through it.

If you take a look at the Data Sheet I've linked you will see that the LED module itself requires some sort of heat sink as well, usually they are mounted on some aluminum sheet, but unless you are driving the module at the low end of its power range you are going to be generating heat in the module that will require some method of dissipation. If you don't the module will fail sooner rather than later, just a rule of physics that none of us are immune to!

Not to sound patronizing but it might be any easier route to go on eBay and source a Cree module and the power driver spec'd for it, the modules are about $5 and the driver circuits are about $5, that way you can just add a power source and a switch of some sort and be up and running in no time. The module you've obtained is the type that is basically used for AC powered applications it has a somewhat higher voltage requirement the way it's configured, the Cree devices that are most widely available are configured as requiring lower voltages more for portable battery power , usually 3.3 -4.5 VDC often using rechargeable 3.3VDC LIion batteries.

The advantage is you will get a professionally designed and manufactured driver that has all the technical advantages that your MOSFET and battery won't have. And it will probably be SMD reflow soldered and much smaller that the discreet components you'll have to assemble.

He's using a high power LED module not discreet LEDs, probably $10 each.

The flux acts as a deoxidizer to the oxidized surfaces of the component leads, it basically cleans down to the pure bare metal and prevents re-oxidization of the heated metal in the process of allowing the solder to get the best possible mechanical and electrical bond to the lead's metal surfaces that are being joined.

The shop had a bag with the components and labeled it as a drive kit. They did have it wired to a DC converted plugged into a wall outlet.

I'll check ebay and return this stuff.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261280259672?nav=SEARCH

This is probably what I need. I found some flashlights that use the same LED module for $8. Maybe I should just buy one of those and call it done

I'm not sure what a LED Lenzer V24 is or does but it's probably a safe bet that there is something coming out of China that can be modified or adapted to come close!

Is it a light emitter used for specialty photography or something like that?

Yeah. It's a light stick of some sorts.

Think light saber without the removing of limbs

doesn't sound like much fun in that case!!