Finally... - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

E150GT · #16 04-26-2016, 05:00 PM

What exactly are you going to do with the paint? My paint is peeling and I dont want to spend money on an expensive paint job as its a work truck but my paint is peeling in some locations and its developing some surface rust on it.

jplinville · #17 04-27-2016, 10:21 PM

Sand it down smooth, bedliner roll the bottom half, and primer the top half. Other than that, nothing. I can't see putting out money for a professional paint job for a vehicle that will be used as it was made for...a work truck. We have a small box trailer and a larger flat bed trailer that the wife uses for hauling when she does clean-outs. She keeps the antiques she finds and sells them, then junks the rest. I'm trying to talk her into letting me turn the truck into a stake bed, but she likes the long bed.

As long as I can get my F-250 back from her, I'll do whatever she wants me to do to hers. Mine is a couple years newer (1994) in better cosmetic shape than hers. Well, it was until she began using it...it looks like it may need re-sprayed.

jplinville · #18 07-13-2016, 01:39 PM

Well, I thought the mechanicals were done, but we found an issue we thought was fixed, but wasn't. I assumed the vibration I was feeling at highway speeds was from the tires, but after 3 rounds with the balancer, I found it in the driveshaft...something that was supposedly taken care of when the transmission was installed. I was told they balanced it, but they added a few weights with clamps instead of doing it right. So, I dropped the shaft and took it to a local shop to be rebuilt. Everything from the front of the tube to the back of the shaft was replaced and rebuilt.

I can now be driven at highway speed without vibration or shimmy. If I could chase down the front end float and make it better than stock, I'd be happy. It seems all of these F series bricks have a bit of float while driving. I've had my front end rebuild checked by three professionals, and they all three agree that it was done right, so it's not in the work I did. I'll eventually get this sorted out, but I think it will always have the float, no matter what I do to it. I plan on taking it to an off-road shop next week to have them take a look at it in case we're missing something on it.

t walgamuth · #19 07-13-2016, 01:49 PM

Is that twin I beam?

jplinville · #20 07-14-2016, 05:58 PM

Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front...This is a 4X4. Twin I-Beam were the 2 wheel version.

In the past, we've increased the toe-in in hopes of getting a bit better control, and to some extent, it worked. However, tire wear showed me that it wasn't the wisest idea, wo we went back to the way the alignment shop had it.

jplinville · #21 07-14-2016, 06:01 PM

If I had ripped it all apart and swapped the axle with the 350 I had with kingpins, life would be better. I didn't because I figured the D60 axle was strong enough for my needs.

jplinville · #22 08-10-2016, 09:19 PM

Last week, I tore the steering column apart to replace a $10 part that broke, and while there, replaced the bearing. The part that broke was the ignition actuator, which pushes down the ignition rod, which starts the engine. It's a somewhat common occurrence with these trucks. The steering wheel lock actuator, which is pushed forward with the ignition tumbler and pushes the ignition actuator forward, is a mess, and needs replaced, however. I'm planning on raping the part out of a junk truck or other Ford product that they were used in...since a new one will run me about $100 at the dealer, or $70 online. Luckily, it's a rather simple job, and only requires the removal of the steering wheel and turn signal switch, then the collar. I should be able to have that job done in about 2 hours or so.

The new bearings have made driving the truck more enjoyable, since they corrected the loose and rattling steering wheel. Most folks on the Ford truck site told me to just replace the column, but I didn't find tearing the old one down to be too much of a chore.

I'm still deciding what to do with the bed...either weld patches, or remove it and find a flat bed with rail pockets. I'm thinking the patches would be best in the long run, to be honest.

I need to upgrade the CB that's in it. It's one I picked up at a Pilot a few years back and transferred it from the Lincoln to the van, and now into the truck. It's weak, and the antenna sucks. I've been looking at some powered up older units and thinking about twin whips for antennas. We went out a few weeks back to a friend's camp, and ended up running around on some trails, and found the current unit to be way too weak, even after tuning the antenna. So much for buying cheap crap from a truck stop.

I'm still working on sanding down the loose paint, and spraying it with a thick coat of primer to help hide defects. It's looking decent, and will be ready for some sanding again and a coat of sealer soon...then on to the bed liner job.

While this old truck will never win a beauty contest, she's been enjoyable to tinker on.

t walgamuth · #23 08-11-2016, 04:47 AM

You're doing some excellent work there Jon. You must be feeling stronger. You've been through a lot with your health....

Congratulations!

jplinville · #24 08-11-2016, 03:18 PM

Not as strong as I should be. Much of the work is being done as favor paybacks from friends. As I type this, I have a friend in the drive, changing the exhaust manifold gaskets to cure a ticking exhaust leak I thought was taken care of a few months ago.

As for my health, it's not doing much of anything. I've lost 75 pounds since October of last year, and still have more to lose before I'm where I'd like to be. Vertigo is about what it was...there. I just don't pass out as often I was...which is good. Everything else is controlled with medications. I still use a cane daily, and the walker when it's needed. I've learned how to spot warning signs of bad days. When those pop up, I just sit in my chair, and ride out the wave. I've come to the understanding that I'll never be back to where I was, and have come to terms with it.

As I can afford it, work gets done to the truck, which makes the wife happy. 5 years of it as a drive way ornament meant that I had to put up with "the look" on more than one occasion. Now that it's up and running, legally inspected and deemed safe to drive, she's been enjoying driving it. She just informed me today that I need to add Nerf bars soon, as the single step is no longer a viable option for her to climb up. That's fine...I think I can actually do that one on my own!!

jplinville · #25 08-30-2016, 09:39 AM

I found wheel arch patch panels for the truck...$60 for the pair. Now I need to search through my local network of folks to locate someone that can and is willing to stitch weld them in place, for payment on the barter system.

As shown in the CB thread I began, I now have a new CB with twin 4' Firesticks, giving me good transmitting range.

I was forced to climb under the truck when my son was unable to locate the fuel filter on the frame. Once I pointed it out, and described to him how to simply pull the clips, loosen the clamp, and pull the hoses, he was able to get it replaced. He also replaced the air filter yesterday with a K&N box filter. We did the Seafoam treatment last month, but I think I should do it again...just to piss off the neighbors. LOL Actually, with the amount of smoke that we generated and the improvement that it made, I think we should do one more before the warmer days are gone.

I'm still having issues locating a steering wheel lock actuator at a decent price. Dealers and online sources want anywhere from $65 to $100 for it, and salvage yards don't list them online...so we're going to have to go on a hunt through the salvage yards. Most of them around here don't like it when you tear down the steering columns, since they bring in more money as a whole unit, but with son acting as lookout, I think we may be able to find something.

We straightened out the front of the bed that I bent in 2009 after a runaway mounted tire rolled with enough force to bend the rail...almost hitting the back of the cab. A tow strap and a 1-ton come-along made easy work of that job.

When my son and his friends were removing the fiberglass topper last year, they dropped it, cracking it at one of the top curved corners. Instead of getting fancy, we're going to screw in some aluminum that I've been hammering to fit, then lay a few pieces of fiberglass cloth over top and sand it down. That should hold me until I locate the aluminum topper I want. I refuse to pay for a brand new one, so the hunt for a good used one is on.

When I went tire shopping, I decided on getting a set of recaps with BFG AT/K pattern...about 40% cheaper than brand new. Re-treads have more stringent regulations than new tires, and are legal for road use here. However, the guys that put them on didn't use a lift...they used a floor jack. In doing so, I think they screwed up the steering a bit, so it's going in for an alignment tomorrow. I expect to get a call, telling me that I need to replace a tie rod or two...items I replaced back in 2009. Hopefully it doesn't need it, and a typical adjustment is all it needs, but I know my luck.

My plan was originally to have this ready for matte color by the end of this year, but little things are popping up, and the weather hasn't been as cooperative as it was earlier in the year. So, if I have it ready by this time next year, I'll be very happy.

E150GT · #26 08-30-2016, 10:32 AM

Check those brake lines. I was sitting in my truck last week in a school parking lot waiting for my GF to summon me to drive up and pick up some bookshelves to take to another school. I put my foot on the brake and it went to the floor. I had just replaced the brake booster hose the day before and I thought maybe it had come loose so I popped the hood and it looked fine. I looked under the truck and saw a puddle of brake fluid under the diff. Turns out one of the hard brake lines on the diff had rusted through and let go. Luckily I was in a parking lot. I had just been on the highway. I loaded up the shelves and limped it to a gas station and waited for my brother to come and get us and the shelves. I went back later that evening when traffic was low and drove the few miles home along city streets using the weak front brakes and the engine and transmission to do most of my braking. I spend the weekend pulling brake lines at the junkyard and installing them. The truck spend one year at the coast and it really did a number on the fittings. I had to replace the front lines because I couldnt get the fittings off the brake hoses. I just cut the lines and installed non rusted ones from the junkyard.

jplinville · #27 08-30-2016, 11:41 AM

Just had them replaced 2 months ago with SS lines, because the same thing happened to me at the local Ace Hardware. I hit the brakes, and the pedal dropped. Burst the line on the driver's side, right under the seat.

jplinville · #28 08-31-2016, 02:50 PM

Ok, figured out why the steering is loose. The steering gear box is toast. I adjusted it in 2009/2010 to tighten it up a little, and it worked, but is finally worn out. I have a new one on order and have my son watching videos on how to replace one. With my supervising it and him wrenching on it, I'm sure we'll have it done in a short time.

School starts back up for him on Tuesday, his Senior year in High School. I've taught him a good bit over the Summer months about working on the truck. He's in the process of saving to buy an old brick nose like this, or the dent side of the 70's. With the knowledge he's gaining, he'll need it to own these era trucks. They're great trucks, last forever when cared for, and hold value longer than most cars.

After we get the steering box changed on this truck, I plan on doing the same with our other brick nose, since it's just as loose, if not looser. I found some Detroit Axle steering boxes for $134 on Amazon, with lifetime warranty. Price is about $20 cheaper than at a parts house, with free delivery.

jplinville · #29 09-06-2016, 04:02 PM

A number of years ago, I picked up a used truck topper for my wife's F250, for free. I repaired the broken hinge on the window, as well as replaced the gas shocks. Two years ago, I hit a heck of a chuck hole while out on a test drive, which reverberated through the truck to the clamps holding the cap on...causing them to forget how to do their job. It flew off and hit the road with such force that it knocked a window out and cracked the fiberglass. I stopped the truck, and picked the cap up and clamped it down to get it back home. We pulled it off and set it on horses, then ignored it...until today.

Today, I pulled it out and surveyed the damage done...it wasn't pretty. I grabbed a few old license plates (I have them from every vehicle I've ever owned) and cut them to cover the cracks and holes. I drilled them for the rivets, then installed them inside the cap. I then rough sanded the outside of the damaged areas to accept the next step. The next step included using some old fiberglass cloth, and a few old T-shirt rags I had soaked in resin, laying each piece as carefully as possible (glass work is a pain), using a brush to push out the air bubbles.

Once it cures, I'll go out and sand it down a bit, being careful to not remove too much of the patch, then cover it in primer and call it good. I have absolutely no plans to do more than is needed to make the topper weather proof for Winter use. Heck, I have no plans on doing much with the truck body, other than stop the surface rust and cover it to prevent further rust, until all the mechanical work is done.

For some reason, all F-series truck bumpers dent in the same place...I've seen more than I can count with bends in the same spot...rear bumper, passenger side, with corner turned out and under. This one is no different. I took my trusty come-along out for some driveway repair work. I attached one hook to the wife's F250 bumper, and the other to my trucks frame, then added tension while hitting the top plate with a soft face sledge hammer. It's not perfect, but it's no longer glaring at me. I did the same for the slight buckle in the front bumper, which most of these trucks have.

I do what I can, when I can...and have gone a long way with it this Summer. I'm hoping that next year, I'll have all of the mechanicals taken care of, and be able to get the body ready for primer and paint...which will happen in the driveway, instead of a garage. My wife is enjoying the time her and I spend on this, as is my son. Even if it's never perfect looking, the time spent with them is priceless.

E150GT · #30 09-06-2016, 04:41 PM

my rear bumper is bent like that too but it came from a concrete pole in a parking lot many years ago.