I have a ceiling that I would like a wood plank looking surface. I was thinking laminate flooring might work-it's light, thin, inexpensive, comes in many finishes and can be ordered in 6' planks to minimize joints and most is very realistic on a floor so a ceiling would be better? I was thinking I would glue and nail. The only problem I can see is it might be wavy if the ceiling is not perfectly flat. I plan on using faux rafters at the joints and ridge.
Edit-Seems there is a laminate product/ system specifically designed for ceilings. https://www.armstrongceilings.com/residential/en-us/suspended-ceiling-systems/wood-look-ceiling-planks.html

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Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

When installing it on a floor it is allowed to swell with humidity by leaving a gap around the edges. Once you nail it that is gone. My guess it is called laminate "flooring" for a reason.

Not sure if it is recommended for ceilings, but there is peel + stick wallpaper in wood designs.

Thanks-I think the Armstrong system would be good. It's a floating system.

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Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

Yes the ceiling version would not snap together. Price not bad in todays world either.Normally they do the specialty product pricing.

Should install fast. It is so washable probably there never would be a need to paint it.

I would quickly check if fire code in your area allows it. Most probably do. I might not install it under a washroom though. A leak someday may cause a real issue.

Not as much finish variety as the dedicated click flooring versions but enough to satisfy most tastes.

Interesting. Not something I've thought of. Since it will all be covered, easy matter to lay out each existing actual joist on the drywall. If you mounted perpindicular to the joists, seems like the edges would be fine, but I can see something at the ends being usful. What, were you thinking about putting some plywood behind the drywall at those points? With a 2"x2" or so incision an inch away from each end, could slide in some 1/2" ply about 2"x10." Wouldn't even really need to plaster the plug back in place. I might do it but then I'm a sucker for overkill.

I've done two floors in the last year with snap and click 100% vinyl flooring. Not something I was initially attracted to but one client wanted it - cost effective, and didn't look half bad in a gray color. I've some with a brownish color that looked surprisingly realistic. Many patterns, repitition of pattern was not an issue. The second client had experienced some water issues with the the carpet we took out, I dealt with those best I could, even so vinyl seemed like the safer way to go. I would never us the cheapy Pergo faux wood with particle board - I've seen big spots of that swollen up in bedrooms from some spilled bevarage or other liquid. But even the engineered plywood stuff doesn't do will with regular water I gather. The product we used on the first job (from Costco, I foolishly didn't make good note of the brand) snapped together much easier than the second brand - Lifeproof - we got at Home Depot. PITA. I had to come up with my own installation sequence as theirs was a problem. I would search reviews on that issue at any rate.

Water damage wouldn't be an issue (usually) on ceilings but price might be. Pin nails hide pretty well in that stuff, you'd only need them on the groove side, some sort of properly colored filler hides fairly well.

On the wavy part, it's amazing how off level/plumb drywall ceilings and walls can be and you don't really notice. Must be the texture that masks it. A 6' level might reveal any bad spots. Putting in some 1/8 ply and/or thick solid cardboard ought to be fairly simple. Saints be praised for hot glue guns. On floors I use that Patch-All stuff but that would be overkill for a ceiling, not to mention near impossible.

Would be neat to see photos when you're done.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I put shiplap up on a bathroom ceiling, sealed it on all sides, and used a biscuit joiner to make the butt ends align.
Finished it with 2 coats clear water based poly.
Used a 1x to trim the ceiling/wall joint.
Looked tidy when done.

Sounds nifty. Reasonable cost and a tad rustic maybe.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

great idea, using liquid nails? with temporary plywood holding it up ?

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

I would use the system designed for the product. Plenty of projects already but every morning I look up at that ceiling while having coffee and think how much better it would look instead of drywall.

__________________
Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT