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  #16  
Old 01-12-2003, 10:39 PM
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Oiling the bottom of vehicles is an accepted practice on Pacific islands where they have extreme rust condititions, but it doesn't really work. Lifespan of a vehicle on a coral atoll is about 5 years max before the rust devours it completely. Actually, the oil pan rusting out is one of the more common failure modes.

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  #17  
Old 01-12-2003, 11:04 PM
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Has anyone tried a electronic rust inhibitor on a car that already has some rust? I know that they are popular on freshly restored cars.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2003, 11:13 PM
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On older cars, where rust has already started, I've had very good luck with 90 weight gear oil, squirted inside wheel arches, rocker panels and other crevices where the oil can soak in and stay for awhile. 14 years ago I soaked the rear wheel arches on my '72 250, which were already starting to swell at the welds. While other parts of the car have rusted badly, the arches are still intact.

Others here have mentioned Waxoyl and some other product made from sheep oil but my local auto parts stores don't seem to carry anything like that. 90 weight is smelly and messy but I can even find it at Walmart.

I'd also like to hear from anyone who has used 'Extend', P O R (or is it P Q R?) to treat/neutralize rust.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2003, 11:30 PM
3 MB's and counting!
 
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thanks everyone for your help!! Sorry to start any battles! The car was sprayed underneath when the oilling was done so maybe there is nothing to worry about. I worry too much sometimes with my car and go overboard.
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  #20  
Old 01-13-2003, 01:28 AM
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Mark , I've used the rust converter stuff with success before, I believe it's phosphoric acid based.You paint it on and then rinse with water, it turns the rust to a hard black "nearly metal" that can then be bondoed.It works well in areas that you can't cut the rust out easily.
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  #21  
Old 01-13-2003, 08:52 AM
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The rust on the car is extremely minimal and is in a very small area on the front right corner of the car on the edge where the metal meets the bumper. It happened here because dirt collects in there. Also the bumper in the back is bubbling in the back and I cannot seem to control it, but I did hear that these bumpers have rusting problems.

I will take a picture with the camera of the area that have rust when I get a chance.
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  #22  
Old 01-13-2003, 02:39 PM
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Those Coral Atoll guys needed a Land Rover... I saw on Motorweek that some of them had Aluminum frames...
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2003, 02:44 PM
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My brother tells me that in Europe MB's come with 30 year rust through warranties. Is that accurate?

Kuan
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2003, 06:32 PM
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The 30 years guarantee ist correct. But you have to produce the proof that every single service has been done at a Mercedes Dealership.

For that amount spent, they should give you one body for free

Anyway: A Mercedes does not rust from the outside to the inside but vice versa.

For that reason anything done to the bottom of the car ist solely cosmetic. You need to get the stuff into the rocker panels, into the rear wheel arches and so on.

As mentioned earlier, Fluidfilm ist just the greatest stuff on earth. It penetrates every tiny spot (and thats where the rust starts), replenish bitumous stuff and covers all the areas which usually would be exposed to water.

And it is also relativly cheap.



I do not believe in these rust converters. I do not want to work on my car with anything with acid in it.

But Fluidfilm on top of the rust, it will stop the corrosion.

Kind regards
Eberhard
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2003, 06:39 PM
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Good idea, how much was the left fender? $ 3500??

Plain sheet metal can be treated to be rust proof, ist cheap to produce, easy to repair, has high structural strenght.

Stainless steel is good for kitchen stuff.

Kind regards
Eberhard
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  #26  
Old 01-14-2003, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eberhard Weilke

As mentioned earlier, Fluidfilm ist just the greatest stuff on earth. It penetrates every tiny spot (and thats where the rust starts), replenish bitumous stuff and covers all the areas which usually would be exposed to water.

And it is also relativly cheap.Kind regards
Eberhard
I bought my Fluid Film from Gemplers (www.gemplers.com). The spray bottle is okay, but the gallon jug (you have to brush it on) is much more economical.

I think the Fluid Film is the best stuff I've found for combatting rust, though nothing works great when they salt the ***** out of the roads, as they do in Michigan. We have a white film of salt on the roads after the first melting dries up.
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  #27  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:39 PM
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how well does Fluid Film resit wash off?

The manufacturer says it lasts a year on the underside of a car. They also say that is does not wash off that easily - not washed off by 35 psi water -.

What is your experience?
How do you tell whether it is washed off?
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  #28  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:46 PM
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Don't drive it in the salt!

If you do just spray it off and keep it clean. By the time the rust gets real bad either the engine will blow our you will want another car.

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