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#1
11-10-2010, 10:07 AM
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OM617 connecting rod weight colour codes
G'day All,
I've been busy measuring the weights of my new parts and old parts of my OM617.912 before I start to rebuild it and I came across a bit of a problem. According to the FSM all the connecting rods used in one engine should be of the same weight group. (See attached photograph for these values) It also says that each connecting rod has a weight group colour code printed on the inner side of the big end cap... I can't find it there though. Has anyone come across this before? Does anyone have a picture of a connecting rod and its colour code? (I'm guessing it is just like the time I couldn't find my rear diff ratio - so someone please give me a cyber kick up the backside)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! 
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#2
11-10-2010, 03:23 PM
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I can't speak for the .912 as the color codes are different.
But for the .95x the color location is as follows... Here is a shot of a 1982 617.952 conn rod and paint mark locations. .
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System 
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#3
11-10-2010, 03:56 PM
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Connecting rods are not that complicated. If they are of different weights there are places they can be ground down to match balance them I believe. You'd need to match each end and overall weight I believe. i would leave this to a professional machinist though, because if reduced in the wrong place they could fail.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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#4
11-11-2010, 03:31 AM
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Thanks for the information - I'll see if I can find the colour marks - then I can verify if my cheapo kitchen scales are grouping my conrods into the correct weight brackets.
I was indeed planning to grind some metal off to correct if necessary - but for that I need a better set of scales that can measure at least half a gram.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#5
11-11-2010, 03:33 AM
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Have you weighed your rods?
What was the variation? Probably if you gave the heavy ones an extra clean & a rub with a bit of emery to get the last of the mill scale off. The weights would be very similar. The color codes are probably for new rods, its a bit like using second hand pistons if you have only honed the bores, if you can get pistons that are from the larger diameter range, you will get a better fit in a worn bore.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....  1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles  1987 250td 160k miles English import  2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles  1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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#6
11-11-2010, 03:41 AM
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Measurements
I've been a bit anal - here are my weights so far - all neatly packaged in a little pdf file ahhhh
This is a to be continued pdf file!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#7
11-11-2010, 06:28 AM
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looks like #2 & #5 could do with more of a clean.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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#8
11-14-2010, 10:09 AM
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Slow progress - but it is progress!
I've cleaned and cleaned - can't find any marks and they still weigh the same! The cleaning did highlight some suspicious wear marks on the little end bearings - so I'm off to the machine shop tomorrow to see if they've got one of those Gucci micrometers that can measure an internal bearing dimension. There are also some nasty marks on the shank of number 5 conrod - that was the only conrod and piston assembly that was peened / staked together (evidence of yet more fiddling in the past)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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