well, First of all I want to thank you for any kind of info you can give me.

Related to the rear suspension of the 2.3 16valve, If you drive by a bump, the car bounces up with a lot of preassure. Donīt know if not moving the car for about 8 months has something to do.

With the car running, I turned the bleeder of the suspension on the back a little, and foam (like sea foam) came out.
When I did this the car fall down, and when I closed the bleeder, went up again. I was making sure the system was not blocked.
I donīt know if changing all the fluid could help.
Originally if Iīm not wrong fluid is tellus 10 but seems to be last owner added red transmision fluid.
Is there probably air in the system???

Am I suspecting correct??

Not air, but rather nitrogen.

Sounds like you accumulators have headed south...permanently. They need to be replaced, then you need to completely flush the fluid and change the suspension filter. Use only the MB hydraulic fluid. This and antifreeze are the only MB only fluids I use.

Since someone apparently used ATF, you will probably want to run an extra quart through the system to ensure all the ATF is flushed out. Normal flushing takes approximately 2 quarts...plan on using 3. A search of the past posts should bring up a how-to on flushing the suspension fluid.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

The gasket on the pump was changed so I think some air got in the system.

In the reservior there is ATF red fluid, but when I went to the bleeding nut at back, MB original fluid came out like foam!!!
Isnīt this fluid supposed to recycle? they are not mixed.
Is the ATF fluid keeping down the MB fluid???

The MB hydraulic fluid is kind of green, once in the resevoir bottle it looks much darker. If the fluid is coming out of the bleeder screw at the leveling valve it is most likely nitrogen permeating through the diaphragm material. I know when my accumulators were shot my fluid came out looking like sea foam.

I think the pump is low pressure/high volume. When the motor is runniing, with the resevoir cap dipstick out you can watch the fluid flow into the bottle. It runs like a slow tap and the fluid sort of falls into the strainer filter. If the car rises and lowers quickly when you manually move the lever on the leveling valve, that is another sign of blown accumulators. Mine did the same. Afer replacement I could still manually raise and lower the car, but it was at a slower rate.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

hey thanks alot.
Sorry but my english isnīt that good.

I donīt really know whatīs happening but, when I turned the bleeding nut, the car went down, and when I closed it, it went up again slowly. I only let the fluid out for 2 seconds.

After this, the car felt better than before but not perfect yet.

Should I flush the whole system?
If so, try to specify because of my english

Thanks again

Change the nitrogen spheres, also known as accumulators. Flush the system completely using only Mercedes hydaulic fluid. Use approximately 3 quarts of fluid.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

I want to make sure the cells are broken, because over here in south america colmbia, the cells cost 500 dolars each so, if I proof they are broken, I could have someone in the us buy them for me.

One more thing: The pump was dissasembled and put together again. Is there any chance something else is wrong besides the acumulators?????

When bled through the back valve, what does the white foam mean??

Mike has told you the white foam is the nitrogen in a blown sphere. The white foam happens for the same reason that soda foams when you swish it in your mouth. You most definitely have a blown sphere; you will have to disassemble to figure out which one. You need to replace both, however, unless you want this to happen again in October.

__________________
Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

La espuma blanca significa que los esferas del nitrogeno son malos.

The white foam means the nitrogen spheres are bad (so others don't have to jump to their free translators )

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Your English is fine.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Even if you bleed all of the nitrogen out of the system the ride will still be hard. The continued hard ride will eventually ruin the rear struts. The accumulators are what provide the shock dampening.

If the spheres cost $500 each where you live, struts will probably be $1,000 each.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Someone mentioned a filter. Where is it? I see the strainer thing (like the one in the master cylinfer) but nothing else.

__________________
Sent from an agnostic abacus

2014 C250 21,XXX my new DD ** 2013 GLK 350 18,000 Wife's new DD**

- With out god, life is everything.
- God is an ever receding pocket of scientific ignorance that's getting smaller and smaller as time moves on..." Neil DeGrasse Tyson
- You can pray for me, I'll think for you.
- When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours.

The fluid recycles to the levelling valve, only. After the levelling valve there is only a "goes into" line to the accumulators and then from there to the struts. The struts are no more than a hydraulic ram, that sets the ride height. All the damping effects come from the accumulators. When they fail the entrained Nitrogen goes into solution with the oil, and stays dissolved in the oil, in the accumulator area. When you crack the bleeder valve the oil from the strut goes out the supply line and you get this foaming action as the oil comes to atmospheric pressure, and the Nitrogen comes out of solution.

Allowing the car to operate with the fluid in the system "solid" which means without a compliant cushion of pressurized gas will fatigue the Aluminum mounting threads in the strut mount to the suspension (bottom of the strut as it is mounted in the car). The strut is a steel extrusion and has a male thread at the bottom that engages female threads in the Aluminum mount. When the fluid system is solid the response to road irregularities you feel as "bouncy" begins to overstress these Aluminum female threads and they eventually rip out. The fix is a new strut. They are about 4 times the cost of a Nitrogen sphere.

If having items like this shipped from Germany is feasible, get in touch with Andreas at www.dbdepot.de since I have recently purchased a strut and a set of spheres I can report the cost was about $95 or so for each sphere and about $300 for the strut. Shipping brought the total bill to about $550. Make sure you get a proper wrench for taking the lines off the spheres, as rounding those little guys is a major problem. My son got impatient and ruined one, and had to use a Dremel tool to cut the sphere off the line. Then he had to restore flats so he could wrench the thing again. He spent at least 4 hours under the car on one side, and then with the flare nut wrench of the right size and a few applications of a pentrant, the other side came off in a few minutes.

Good luck and I hope this helped. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)