I searched some threads but am unclear. Is it possible to remove the ball joints with a ball joint press on the car?

Can someone help with the procedure? I do have a press if that works best.
Secondly, the dealer tells me that for my 1990, tranny fluid is Dextron 3. Any thoughts as the owners manual says use mercedes fluid?

Walter

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Walter Sawczak
1990 300 E
1993 Lincoln Mark VIII
1983 Jaguar XJ6

In my experience (190e) the universal ball joint press that you can borrow/rent from auto stores won't work. Been there/done that. They don't provide a correct adaptor. I had to remove the arm from the car and use a press to get it out. Plan on a day. Unless you have some Mercedes specific tool or you could fab an adaptor. It would be so simple with the correct tool/adaptor.

I use Dextron in my trans and power steering.

OK thanks, what is the procedure to get the control arm
off, spring compressor required?

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Walter Sawczak
1990 300 E
1993 Lincoln Mark VIII
1983 Jaguar XJ6

......


Let me say- here's how most do it. They support the a-arm close to the ball joint with a jack stand. I use a spring compressor to make sure if something goes- I'm not dead.
Then, use a large hammer on a ??2" piece of pipe. Go down to home depot and pick out a piece and a cap. Beat it out! Use the Autozone tool to install the new one. Not sure if a W124 requires the same tricks as a W123 to get it to work- but ppl here should chime in with experience.

Taking out the control arm requires a mercedes specific spring compressor .


Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Boy am I gonna watch this thread! I've got to do the same job this week on daughter's '87 300E. She had a catastrophic ball joint failure on drivers side as she backed into driveway on Friday night (how lucky is that!). Was watching TV about 1AM when heard her back in. Sounded like she ran over a piece of plate steel or something. Went outside to check and didn't really see anything. No parts laying on ground or that sort of thing. Next day go out to check car. From 25 feet, could tell front end was way low. Take tire loose and jack up car. Ball is still connected to steering knuckle. Socket/joint is still part of lower control arm. They are four inches apart. Joint looks fairly easy to remove since it is pressed into A-arm and is not buried up inside steering knuckle like on a 123. Still, I saw an ad for a used 10 ton shop press, so I may just run out and buy it if it will make the job easier. Only worry is getting the spring compressed enough without the Klann spring compressor. I've got an old threaded rod/hook type compressor from working on MacPherson struts. Not sure if I can get enough on the spring with that to remove spring. It did work on the 123, but worried me.

Well, the failed ball joint has been replaced. Had to replace a the coil spring on that side as well. A piece, about 1/3 turn, of the coil had broken off at the bottom. Nervous job with only cheap MacPherson strut sping tools. Wound up using some 3/4 inch black iron pipe as a safety device. Slid 10" sections of it up thru the A-arm and the spring with couplers until it stuck out the top. made working around the spring less frightening. Supported the A-arm near the ball joint and just pounded the old one out with a socket and big hammer. Installed the new one by getting it started and then putting a socket under it and supporting it, then placing even larger socket on top of A-arm and pounding down to force the ball-joint up. Will have to wait to do other side. Need to work on my truck first-it is our spare car.

Bob,

You must be more tallented with a hammer than me! I tried for a bit with my 2.5# ballpeen hammer and it didn't move. I had it supported by a jackstand. Borrowed a 4# hammer and now it's raining today.

I'm about to take the control arm somewhere and get it done... any encouraging words would be appreciated.

Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

In my case the ball was already apart from the joint. I put liquid wrench in the gap between the joint and the arm for a day of so, but don't really think it helped much. I put a big piece of steel under the arm , just inboard of the joint. Pounded the outer edges of the joint with couple of big hammers, driving the joint down flush with the arm. Hitting couple times this side couple times that side, back and forth, up and down. After the joint was flush, it had maybe 4mm more sticking out the bottom than before. Then I found a large socket, just slightly smaller than the hole in the arm and started pounding again. Same procedure:hit left side, hit right side. Hit it a lot and eventually it pops out the bottom. Cleaned up the hole real well with emery cloth, looked for burrs, etc. To install new one, I used a 1-7/16 (46mm) 3/4"drive socket (rear axle nut on '70 VW bus) to tap the joint in from the bottom. I got it started pretty easy and then set the socket on my floor jack pushing against the outer shoulder of the joint. Then I used an old 4wheel drive nut socket (big dia. pipe would work) to fit over the whole top of the joint and apply force down on the arm without really touching the joint. Hit with familiar pattern and joint ever so slowly walked into position. When joint flange it tight up against arm, you are finished. Unless you have spring tools you really feel good about, I would try to leave the spring in place. And if you do leave it in place while you are working, please think about putting a big piece of pipe or something stout down thru the spring and the holes in the top and bottom spring mounts. Those things really will kill you if they get a chance.
BobK

Whenever I work with my springs, I put a length of chain through the spring, and bolted it around the control arm. I figure if it lets loose, it can't go very far. By the way, I begain this practice after I tried using MacPherson strut compressors on my MB springs, and one flew off and hit me right below the eye! It was a REALLY dumb thing to do.

Please, just be careful when working with these springs.

Careless Jackass (aka: Jeff Pierce)

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

I feel your pain. Happened to me. The moral to others is to not let this go. It could be very dangerous.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Hammer way too small. You are on the right track, but think about an even bigger one.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.