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  #16  
Old 09-07-2004, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 14
I did the clear procedure and now have only the following codes
on pin 8 code 13, 22, 23.

I tried the clear procedure a number of times.
Might I be doing something incorrectly.
The first time I went to a long 8 count for each one then did
the 10 sec off followed by 10 sec on followed by a start and run
2 minutes.

THEN I did it with longer than 8 count (probably 12-14 secs)
followed by the 10 sec off and 10 sec on and then a start and run
for a couple of minutes.
THen off, turned ignition back on, plugged tool back in and checked and
have the 13, 22, and 23 code.

jsb:

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  #17  
Old 09-07-2004, 04:17 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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You may have the early ECU [ before 3/93]
Slightly different procedure

To get codes hold for 2-4 secs
After code comes up , wait 2 secs and then clear it by holding 5-6 secs.
Do them all until you get a single flash... You have to do each and every one individually.
If you don't get the single flash, you haVE NOT CLEARED THE CODE , SO TRY AGaiN

aFTER YOU GET 1 FLASH [ NO CODES STORED] only then CAN YOU RESET/ACTIVATE THE ecu MEMORY.
THAT IS done by HOLDING 6-8 SECS after A 1 APPEARS . tHEN YOU TURN KEY OFF 2 SECS [ OR A LITTLE MORE ] , BACK ON FOR AT LEAST 10 AND START THE CAR.
yOU SHOULD NOW HAVE NO CODES AnD A NEW , RESET ECU ...

forget the caps... i hit it by mistake and don't want to do it again...
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  #18  
Old 09-07-2004, 05:42 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Well arthur:
I was finally able to clear pos #8. It appears to be a hit or miss
kinda thing. It took me many times and i'm still not entirely sure
of the sequence( hold for 2-4 seconds, let go for 2 sec, hold down
for around 5-6 sec) then go on to the next code. Or after the 5-6
sec hold down then go to the car and turn the ignition off for about
2 secs and back on. Anyway It finally cleared them all.

I then checked the codes for pos # 14 which are as follows 7, 10, 11

Then I started the engine and let it come to nornal operating temp,
shut it down, and rechecked pos #8

Results for Pos#8 4,13,22

Just one note:
I do still have the 6 bolt cover off the engine, the air cleaner and one sensor
that attaches into the air cleaner on the left side facing it.

Hope we are beginning to see clearly now.

jsb:
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  #19  
Old 09-07-2004, 06:01 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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OK
But , my main question is were you able to get back to a single flash [ 1-no codes stored] after clearing codes ??
Did you see a SINGLE flash on pin #8 ?????????
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  #20  
Old 09-07-2004, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton
OK
But , my main question is were you able to get back to a single flash [ 1-no codes stored] after clearing codes ??
Did you see a SINGLE flash on pin #8 ?????????
Yes I did.
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  #21  
Old 09-07-2004, 06:30 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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OK
Then I am going to assume that after the single fash, you did reset the HFM module memory as I had instructed..
so, with that info, we have new codes and the ecu is clear of adaptation map.

The other confusing part is--- are you saying that you are running this engine with the cross pipe and MAF and intake air temp sensor not hooked up?

If so, that is where your code 4 is coming from.Unmetered air and MAF adaptation code .

Back to the original problem.. code 22 is ign coil circuit for 2 and 5 .
As you have done swapping from other cyl with no response, you now need a scope on the primay side of the coil [ you already know you have 12v power to coil.]
This code list remedies ranging from open primary wire back to ECU, bad ECU , or input sig to ECU for tripping those 2 plugs. [Along with bad plugs, connectors,or coil, but you have eliminated those with the swap...]
Adaptation codes can also be injectors , so I am wondering if you have a bad segment magnet on the flywheel. There are 3 and they input the injector and plug mapping at the ECU. Again , a scope for pattern of crank sensor....
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2004, 06:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Yes that is correct, did get to a one blink,
then I did do the reset as you said.
And yes I am running it without the thing you mentioned.

If I can get someone with a scope to check it and we find it
is a flywheel magnet, what does it entail to fix it? Is it a major
job or a relatively simple one.

Another concern, can I drive it to a shop if need be without
risk of further damage. 10- 20 miles.
Or should it be towed.
Again Arthur, I want to thank you for sharing you knowledge.
It does my heart good to know there are people willing to share.
jsb:
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  #23  
Old 09-07-2004, 07:07 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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Unless anyone else has something to add , I think some scope patterns will tell the tale..
Normally, any decent shop would have scoped it from the start, but when we try to do this over the net and in your backyard, sometimes some simple part swaps and look/see stuff works, but sometimes it requires equipment.
You have an ign triggering problem on one coil only and after the few known good part swaps you have done ,that is about all you can do..

I would not drive it with 2 dead jugs....
.. and I have no idea on prices.
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  #24  
Old 09-07-2004, 07:20 PM
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Arthur:
I will keep you posted on my next steps.
THanks again
jsb:
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2004, 08:44 AM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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OK


Here is some related info

http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/merc.html

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