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  #1  
Old 09-29-2004, 04:02 PM
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Bad LED'S in odometer

anyone know of a fix for this:


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  #2  
Old 09-29-2004, 04:54 PM
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Never seen that before! Hopefully it won't require a new cluster, but that wouldn't shock me. On the ACC unit if the lamp burns out, you need a new $1500 unit. Stupid Mercedes.
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  #3  
Old 09-29-2004, 05:10 PM
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I believe that is actually an LCD. They put the polarizer in backwards to give it "negative mode" and then shine colored light through it. It looks to have the same problem as my (and everyone else's as far as I can tell) climate control. Generally the glass connects to the PCB with a rubber connector (with conductive rubber elements). On the climate control you press on the display and it fixes it (for 5 minutes). I imagine the same would be true of this if you could get your finger in there. What do you want for 40K?? Ha Ha, I'm only bitter. Anyway, you could pull the cluster and fiddle with it and maybe get it going. Is it at all temp dependent, worse on hot days? Comes and goes?

Mike
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  #4  
Old 09-29-2004, 06:39 PM
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not temp dependant at all; actually someone on another forum told me to pull the cluster, take it apart and clean it, but I'm pretty sure I could make it worse!
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  #5  
Old 09-29-2004, 07:09 PM
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I am curious what they wanted you to clean. I would not suggest taking it apart necessarily. But you will have to remove it one way or the other to fix it. You just have to decide if you can live with it. Yes, my climate control will come out eventually (probably).

Mike
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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  #6  
Old 09-30-2004, 01:08 PM
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"It may be possible to repair the display by disassembling and repairing the components. Typically is is dirty connections that cause the problem. Typically opening, cleaning and reassembling the connection resolves the problem...There are typically two ways an LCD will fail. One is if they get wet. The other is the connection from the glass to the PCB. It is easy to fix the connection, if the assembly may be taken apart...Cleaning is accomplished using a lint free wipe. If increased action is required, then 100% isopropyl alcohol, not rubbing alcohol, may be used."

Like I said, I think this guy is braver than I!
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  #7  
Old 09-30-2004, 01:31 PM
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I might try that advice on my climate control, although I think the real problem there is the face plate or glass is deforming from heat and/or age. As far as taking your cluster apart. It might work, but probably not recommended for someone advertising themselves as "Mechanically Inept". Change your title to "Mechanically Talented" and you might have chance.

Mike
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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  #8  
Old 09-30-2004, 02:15 PM
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lol, that's exactly why I chose that self-description for this forum---to limit the high tech advice!!!
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  #9  
Old 09-30-2004, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieo45
lol, that's exactly why I chose that self-description for this forum---to limit the high tech advice!!!
Have no fear. We're all simple people here !

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