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380sl timing chain tensioner adjustment?
has anyone ever adjusted a timing chain tensioner or replaced one? Is this something that is easy to do or do I need to take it to a mechanic
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#2
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380SL timing chain tensioner
My understanding is that the tensioner is hydraulic, operating on oil pressure. I have had mine replaced by good mechanic. If the chain rattles when you start the car then the tensioner should be replaced. I don't believe there is any "adjustment" to be done.
srharvey '82 380SL '83 240D '93 300TE 4Matic |
#3
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no adjustment to the tensioner, if the chain rattles on cld start up you need to replace the timming chain ant tensioner, I would also replace the timming rails nad valve cover gaskets. Not to easy of a job,
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Royal European Motors North
Robi 954-701-3821 cell |
#4
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tensioners
Note I thought I was replying to my recent post, still looking for help on getting to the tensioner thanks.
I have to believe they changed them, it is on the ticket. Nonetheless if they are an easy change I can do them again myself. I just looked at the MB shop manual. It seems simple but where are they on a 380 engine? I cant see where they are. Di I have to remove anything to get to them? Last edited by ericgr; 10-29-2004 at 12:07 AM. Reason: note I thought I was replying to my post below |
#5
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Well then by all means just replace the tensioner. It is located just above the oil filter housing, mounted into the front of the right head. Two bolts.
But, just like mercedesdoc said, your 380SL is most likely in need of new upper chain guides and possibly a new chain. I have repaired two engines that have cratered due to any of the above mentioned parts failing, not a pretty (or inexpensive) sight.
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Chas Had a 380SL, 450SL, 380SEL, 420SEL, 500SEL Got a Euro 500SEC right now. |
#6
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Try This
Quote:
Watch the book for installation instructions on this item. I understand that it must be pumped up in oil before installation. I think that you must also turn the engine over a few times with the coil wire removed so that the small pump will fill with oil and take up the chain slack. Good luck. Dan |
#7
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Cranking with coil wire
Dan, thanks for your help on this. It's funny, the MB manual instructions mention nothing about pumping it with oil but Chilton's does. Pumping it with oil makes complete sense to me (putting the tensioner in a container of oil and depressing the tensioner) give how the hydraulic tensioner operates.
You wrote that the engine should be cranked with the coil wire removed. I just want to make sure I know what that means. Do you mean that I should remove the starter plug wire from the distributor? I guess (?) that might make the car attempt to start (thus pumping oil) but it won't actually start, thereby maybe pushing oil through there and removing slack in the chain? I'm just guessing. |
#8
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Do you mean that I should remove the starter plug wire from the distributor? I guess (?) that might make the car attempt to start (thus pumping oil) but it won't actually start, thereby maybe pushing oil through there and removing slack in the chain? I'm just guessing.[/QUOTE]
The wire that you should remove is comming out of the top (middle) of the distributor cap and goes to the coil. The coil is mounted on the left fenderwell (driverside). The coil wire snaps in and out of place. Turn the motor over a few times and then replace the coil wire. Make sure it goes back just like it came out. It should have a decsive "snap" as it is being put back. Got a chain crimping tool for rent? You're welcome Dan |
#9
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thanks
Dan, thanks again. The chain, rails, and tensioner were changed on my car 2 years ago by a mechanic so he's the one with the chain crimping tool ;-) If I hear any inkling of the slap again (haven't heard it since I changed the oil to Mobile One, lighter weight 10W-30 from conventional 20W-50 but that may be coincidence or weather/temperature related don't know) I'm going to just change the tensioner.
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