New ball joint tool-interested? GB??

[samiam4]

hello everyone-

I'm not sure how many of you do ball joint replacements. I didn't like the pound it out method on my W124. I looked at the Autozone tool and machined a sleeve/adaptor so I can use their tool on my W124.

I've talked to a machinist online whom likes doing these types of tools. Is there interest in doing a group buy/make for these? I'm guessing cost will be somewhat relate to how indistructable you want them. If we can find the right thickwall tubing cheap-then it's easy lathe work. To make them durable, heat-treatment would be nice.

If there's not much interest, I be happy to post a crude drawing.


Michael

[89-300ce]

I was thinking of making my own. With my ball joint press I can basically use a piece of pipe. I sure wouldn't mind knowing how deep to cut the recess for the control arm though.


Jorg

[csnow]

I like the spirit of your idea, however, what is wrong with the big hammer method? No muss, no fuss. Why even bother setting up a press?

[89-300ce]

Won't you need one anyhow to press it back in? Also, I've been known to hit myself with hammers.

Jorg

[csnow]

Originally Posted by 89-300ce

Won't you need one anyhow to press it back in? Also, I've been known to hit myself with hammers.

Jorg

If you have it in a vise, you can use a 1.5 inch pipe fitting and a big hammer to knock it in quickly. If you are trying to do it on the car, some sort of press tool would be helpful.

[teky]

whats wrong with a scissor jack to compress the ball joint in place

[89-300ce]

Yeah, what's the worst that could happen?
We probably shouldn't even joke about this.

Jorg

[samiam4]

jorg,

I found a scrape piece of 1/2 wall , 2.5 OD pipe (4130). I had the machine shop cut it to 1.5 " length and a 2.25 ID for the autozone tool, the other side must stay around the ball joint- 51.75mm. I think it came out to about 2.038". You could easily make a similar piece for the top side and it would be perrrfect. But, I'm cheap and only got the bottom. My joint seems to want to center just fine.
I'm going to tryit unheatreated. If it yields- I'll clean it up in my mini-lathe and heat-treat it at home. Were's the boric acid and my torch!

I tried a 4 lb hammer while it was installed. Not fun. If I were going that route- I'd go with buying a deadblow or lead hammer- maybe 5-6 lbd. That way the energy is all transfered.



Michael

[89-300ce]

My press uses essentialy different diameters of pipe that sit on top of a flat adapter plate with detents. It was sold as a 4x4 ball joint press. I'll probably just use a 2" length of pipe and recess one area to clear the control arm. I might weld on some reinforcing where the two tangs on the control arm are.

I like deadblow hammers but have found that rusted parts respond better to the sharp shock of a steel hammer. I have a very heavy hammer with a short handle, like a stubby sledge, that works great under a car. Very little speed and distance required to provide a good impact as opposed to a ball peen that needs lots of clearance for a big swing.

Jorg

[samiam4]

Just wanted to give everyone a follow up ...

The collar with the Autozone tool works perfect. Tightened it up and 2 swings with a hammer- it pops about 1/2 out. Did it again and it's in my hand. You could easily do this on the car....

Flipped the collar over on the top of the control arm, and pressed the new joint in place.

Just make sure you have everything square and it's easy.

Michael

[boneheaddoctor]

Originally Posted by 89-300ce

Won't you need one anyhow to press it back in? Also, I've been known to hit myself with hammers.

Jorg

Ouch, i've done that too, more than once.