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#1
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Fuel lines leaking -- how to get it all the way back on?
I'm not sure what you call these, but they're the woven rubberized fuel-carrying lines that run from cylinder to cylinder, glowplug to glowplug. After doing a valve adjustment last weekend, putting the valve cover back on caused one of these to be knocked loose. I can't for the life of me get it all the way back on. I can get it about halfway, but even with needlenose pliers can't get it the last half of the way on that little nozzle. When I run the car I get a fair leak there, enough so that the car really shouldn't be driven. I'm hesitant to add grease or anything... what's the trick? Or do I just need to fetch a burly male neighbor to add some muscle?
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#2
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No real trick to putting it on. Just push harder. That stuff is called injector return hose. It is sold by the meter and cut to fit. About $8 per meter or so. If it's old and has been disturbed you may want to repace it to stop the leaks.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#3
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I've pushed for an hour, until my fingers are literally raw! Think I'll have to take it in to the shop to have it re-seated, how embarrassing.
Thanks, Palangi! |
#4
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Probably have a chunk broken off the hose stuck to the nipple, and there is no way to get the hose back over it.
If it came off when you bumped it, it needs to be replaced anyway -- they both crack and leak, and get so hard they get glassy and will snap off! New hose is much more flexible. The trick to getting them on is to grab the hose with needle nosed pliers so that a little more hose stick out between the jaws than will fit over the nipple. Hose should be a close to parallel to the jaws as you can get it. Push straight down on the fitting, hose should just slide right over. Inspect fitting first for the presence of old hose bits -- as I said, it's likely a ring of hose broke off and is still on there, making it impossible to get the hose seated properly. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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Probably have a chunk broken off the hose stuck to the nipple
I did find that to be the case after my first reseating attempt this morning, and was able to pull off the remaining ring of hose with my needlenose pliers. The metal nipple is clean of remnants, but I did manage to push the nipple through the side of myhose during the last attempt... so you must be right that the old hose is too brittle. Compounding my frustration today is the fact the battery was dead this morning, so I'm having to jump it every time I think I might have it on 'well enough', to see if it still leaks. And I had wanted to drive it to the Atlanta meetup today, which I'm missing right now ![]() |
#6
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Sometimes you can cut a small piece (1/2 inch) off the end of the hose (if you have some excess) and get rid of the hardened/cracked portion closest to the injector. If your return hose is more than a few years old, it could no doubt stand replacing. The dealer sells it by the meter, as previously mentioned. A meter is not quite enough, unless you are really careful when you cut the individual pieces.
And how are your tie rods doing? |
#7
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The lines were so hardened that even after a snip or two, they were still nonelastic and easily damaged. I feel silly now for fighting them as long s I did Saturday.
Today my new lines arrived from Fastlane, and I replaced my poorly-seated lines (two), and no more leaks! And they're a snap to put on when they're fresh. I have two more to put on, but once I got those first two on, I just had to take it out for a drive. I haven't touched the tie rods. I intend to take it into the shop for those, and by 'shop' I mean the one the P.O. used, not the one I used ![]() |
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