Yea, my water pump on the 92 300CE is "bad". It doesnt leak but the whistling is driving me nuts so apparently its the bearings? Anyway, can I just get a new pulley and junk or do I have to get the whole thing? I dont mind buying it or putting it in, but would rather only do what is necessary. I assume its the original pump (no receipts for the replacement) and its got like 150K on it, probably could use a new one anyway?

If the bearings are shot then you'll need to replace the whole pump. Once upon a time you could replace the bearings seperatly........it's now chaeper and easier to change the whole pump.

Get the pump, some seals and some new coolant and you'll be on your way again.

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Alex.

MB Tech
Sydney, Australia
Volvo 122S
W201 190D 2.5 manual
W202 C240
W203 C32

Are you sure its the pump? The tensioner pulley is real near there. You also might want to consider changing both while you're in there.

I just did my water pump and you WILL need at least the bypass hose between the water pump and the cylinder head. Check your other hoses while you are there. They are cheap!

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J.H.
'86 300E

Unless you have the new style steel spring belt tensioner, plan on getting that, too, the rubber will be shot on the old one.

high pitched noise is not the water pump, by the way -- I replaced mine and it's still there.... Either PS pump or alternator, I'd guess.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I checked it with the stethoscope deal, it was right in there, i guess it could be power steering. I plan on more extensive testing. Thanks for the input on other stuff to get, basically a sort of accessory cluster rebuild I suppose. Nothing wrong with new parts to me. So the whistling aint the water pump? I believe you, and will take note of that when I get a chance to get back out on it. What really bothers me is its something wrong, but nothing is wrong, everything works! Except some strange electrical gremlins....

OK, another quick one, probably simple but I figured I'd check my logic. When im at idle, an turn the wheel, the car starts to stumble. Does that mean its the power steering or is it always on, not like a AC clutch. I guess its probably due for the repair kit on fastlane anyway, but I got a bunch of junk to get to so I want all my ducks lined up. Thoughts?

Yes, that' a valid test that indicates the PS pump, its only put under load when its needed (when you turn the steering wheel).

My story: I had a squeak I was chasing but it was only when the engine was warm, so I took the belt off when it was warm (ouch). Checked the water pump: it squeaked. Checked everything else: no squeak. Took the pump out: it squeaked. Checked everything else: no squeak. Put everything back together: the squeak is back. Right now I'm thinking I had multiple squeaks, what fun.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

Hah, nice. I too, have some squeak. Sounds like a supercharger when the RPMs are high . Thank you for the assistance.

Two really nice tools to have for the waterpump job are a 3/8" "wobble-head" extention and a set of Gear Wrench metric wrenches. I bought the wobble extension at Pepboys. The better quality gear wrenches are sold at Sears. Don't forget to install a new thermostat. And I agree with the others, replace your bypass hose, tensioner and serpantine belt while you are at it. They have to come off to do the job, so don't reinstall the old ones.

By the way, don't drive yourself crazy trying to figure out how to take the fan off. There is one center bolt you can use, but it requires a special tool to hold the fan while you undo the bolt. I removed my fan by undoing the bolts that hold the plastic fan to the metal fan hub. There are 4 bolts, and I think you need a 5mm hex bit socket to remove them. Its tight in there, but overall easy to remove the fan this way.

GregS

Coat hanger wire works great as the "special tool" along with an 3m allen wrench, much faster than taking the fan off! Wire goes between the two ridges on the bearing and into a hole in the back of the clutch.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Yeah, it is tight in there. Thanks for the info. I been meaning to get the wobble head after I used one recently, pretty kool. And thanks for the heads up on the wire hanger shortcut.