The outer bushing on the lower control arm is in effect a ball joint. I replaced both (L & R) on my vehicle since they were squeaking. I was replacing all the links on the rear end and the rear wheel bearings. So, I removed the rear carriers, took them to a machine shop and had them remove the old bushings and press in the new bushings.

Also, Brian Carlton may have the answer you are looking for. Check if the ride height of the car is per specifications. Most vehicles suspensions are set up to have camber gain with wheel travel, i.e. increase in negative camber as the suspension is compressed. So, if your springs are weak, then the car will be sitting lower than it is supposed to, there by increasing negative camber at ride height.

As a reminder, but sure and only tighten the link bolts when the car is sitting on its wheels at its normal ride height. Otherwise the suspension will have a preload which will affect the height.

Haasman

I used a motor jack to jack up the suspension about to where it would be under load so as to not get a preset suspension. Thanks for the tip though, it will coem in handy for others looking to do the job.
Thanks
David

So, the bearings that I'm replacing aren't the ones that connect the control arm to the subframe, but the ones that connect to the bearing holdrer?
Thanks
David

Let's see-

The innner bushing is pressed in the LC. I'd probably have new spring pads if I'm removing the coil spring on an old car. Have any of the dog bones been replaced before- some of those wear pretty big. Check the subframe mounts and diff bushings.
The outer joint is pressed into the wheel brg carrier, so you'll have to remove it and take it to be R&R'd. I'm only a few days behind you... Hoping my homemade bushing press will work with the autozone ball joint press again!


Michael

Isn't there some sort of special procedure for replacing the diff. bushings? Regarding the subframe bushings, do the springs have to come out for those? As of now, I don't plan on removing the springs since the bushings is in the bearing carrier. Since I'm doing this on a lift, I'll just put the cork screw engine jack under the control arm to keep some of the tension off the shock.
Thanks
David

Good questions....


So you are not doing the inboard bushing - just the outboard "joint". Diff mounts take some care. The orentation and depth are key. I think you must disconnect the driveshaft for it.

For the subrframe bushings, it doesn't look hard. Very similar to W123/126 but there are 4 mounts. Do a search on the list, someone has a nice pdf file on a Canadian car.
Big thing on them is the cost $. Might want to get a small quantity of the slide paste (sunroof stuff) for installation.

Michael

Matt did a great job in showing us DIYers how to do the rear sub frame mounts on a 190e. Check out his posting.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=76569

Haasman

I'm doing the inner and outer bushings on the control arm. Since I'm doing it on a lift, I'll just use a big cork-screw jack to let the spring out. I'll out it under the arm, then remove the bearing carrier and shock then let it down till the tension is off the spring.
Thanks
David

I'd be really careful-

I haven't looked at how curved the arch of the spring is -but that sounds possibly very dangerous. If you do go that route, please at least secure the spring somehow with a chain so it doesn't get away...


Michael

Does anyone here have a compressor they'd rent me? I want to do thius the safe way of course...
Thanks
David

I have heard that chain auto parts stores rent spring compressors.

Haasman

Almost has to be a Klann or clone -- no room to use any other type.

Peter