Just ordered the Anti Sway Bar Bushing Replacement kit and will give it a go next week.
I've read here that this isn't too hard a job, but has anyone got any advice they could give me beforehand?
The last thing I need is a chorus of "I knew you'd #$% that up."
Thanks

Klaus Fluoride
Australia
1987 230E
275,000 kms

Klaus

There are many threads on this site regarding sway bar bushing replacement. This is one of my favorite, low expense and easy jobs to immediately improve the handling of 124 and 201 cars.

Here is a listing: Changing sway bar bushings

The fronts are easy, can even be done while the car is on the ground. Turn the wheels full left and full right for easier access. Requires 13mm socket or wrenches.

The centers (attached to body brackets) and the outers (attached to the lower A-arms) are removed by sliding off and new ones sliding on. Best to carefully clean the sway off the ends before sliding the new bushings on. Using a little silicone spray helps them slide on.

The rear bushings (only two) are most easily accessible after taking off the rear wheels.


Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Are you talking about the front or rear? Is it safe to assume that this is on the 260E in your signature?

Merry Christmas,

I replaced mine last week
I took it out sanded it and repainted it
No big deal line it up , equal distance from each side,use all the parts in the kit.
Yours may be different than mine (different car)
Go get it.
Happy holidays everyone.

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__________________
[B]Mike Y.
00 sl500 sport
88 560 sl (sold)

Yes, the 124 sway bars are quite different, but simple to replace bushings both front and rear. You need to take off the wheels if replacing the rear bushings, but you only need to raise the front or just slide under from the front. The fronts are accessible from the lower front of the car.

The only thing at all difficult about sway bars on a 124 car is if you want to CHANGE the rear sway bar. In that case, you have to disconnect the subframe mounts and lower the rear suspension as a unit in order to snake the bar out and then back in. It is pretty easy for me because I have a two post lift and a transmission jack. At a minimum it takes jackstands and a floor jack.

Merry Christmas,

Fronts are cake and can be done with car on the ground and wheel racked over. I used a super long extension snaked through the bumper louvers for the inners. Repositioning can be a bit tricky -- keep em all lose until done and I used a floor jack to gently lift and hold pressure on the bar. Car felt GREAT after.

__________________
David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award