Thanks for the info. The this "slipping" between 3 and 4 only happens when cold. After it warms up, it works perfectly.

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John Gillespie
1988 560sec - 192k miles
2006 CLK500 - 40K miles
1995 E300 - 202k miles

Thank you johnjzjz for your knowledge and input. I think you answered the engineering part of WHY its doing it. Now I need to figure out how to fix it; I will try adjusting the Bowden cable after I have done a fluid and filter change.

Yea, this problem ONLY happens when cold. Like johng99 said, once it gets warmed up, its fine. So I will try:

1.) Fluid & Filter change
2.) Adjusting the Bowden cable (if still not fixed)
3.) Adjust Vacuum modulator (if Bowden cable doe not work)
4.) Live with it (if all else fails)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=182598
Link to my saga and help from Steve Brotherton, a real expert.

For me, adjusting the Bowden cable did not fix the 3rd to 4th shift flair. Adjusting the vacuum modulator definitely helped. I turned mine a half turn to firm up the shifts. It helped the flair, but made all of the shifts firmer. I am not sure if a flair or firmer shifts are more likely to decrease the lifespan of my transmission, but I went with the firmer shifts to minimize the flair. Mine is also worse when cold.

My understanding is that the flair is a sign that the transmission is getting on in age and showing signs of wear. Mine started after a fluid change at the dealer that was part of replacing the kickdown actuator and replacing all of the seals. I now have a leak free transmission with a shift flair that may need to be rebuilt in the not too distant future. The dealer told me I would need a new transmission, but I have been driving with the flair for more than 2 years.

Just a word of caution, be careful with shifting in and out of reverse. I was told that the reverse gear is most likely to fail, especially with the increased vacuum pressure after adjusting the modulator. Just be sure to be at a full stop before you shift into reverse.

__________________
I just couldn't give up on my 1995 E320.

I think it might be like always going back to that same bad relationship with an ex girlfriend.
You feel you love them too much, or you are just too stupid to know any better.



Flickr slideshow of my 1995 E320
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24145497@N06/sets/72157616572140057/

Thanks everyone for the info. I have a leaking rear main seal that needs replacing, so it may well be that in the near future I will have the transmission pulled and rebuilt while fixing the seal. If I am going to do this work, is there any advice that you have on what work to do while I'm in there?
I am fortunate to have a good independent mechanic that is reasonable and knows MB transmissions well.
John

__________________
John Gillespie
1988 560sec - 192k miles
2006 CLK500 - 40K miles
1995 E300 - 202k miles

make sure you fab a tool or buy the tool ( on e blows ) to remove the servo piston one is easy you can hand push it - the other could take the tip of your finger off if you are not careful and be very mindful of the placement of the very thin and 1/2 dollar size shims you will find that space the unit = mixing them up will be a thing to EVER get it to work again - take your time and do not touch the unit with any kind of rag no place --- paper towel if you have to wipe anything < rag material will get caught up in the shift valves and by pass locations < NOT a good thing and hard to find -- jz

Thanks for the advice.

Its worth noting that my problem is non-existent when warm. Its only when cold that I get flaring from 2-3 and 3-4. Anyway, I will try the possible fixes I listed above and report back.

Edit: I just finished reading your thread with SteveB. The problem you were describing VERY similar, I want to say almost to the "T", but there are still some minor differences. Thanks for the linky!