Well, the blower on my dad's 300E stopped working again. I replaced the blower controller and the blower wouldn't turn off, now it won't come on at all. I replaced the 80a fuse today, and still nothing. I checked both sides of the fuse (on the fender) with a testlight and it tested well. Then, I checked above the booster at the controller plug, the red wire had power but the yellow one did not. From the searches I performed I came to the conclusion that I should have 1-7volts? Would that be enough to luminate the test light? I had the defroster switched on with the key to the "on" position.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Is there any other way to check the controller or blower before taking it all apart? Could I just run a wire from the connection above the booster straight to the blower?
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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I believe the blower motor connection is in the passenger compartment on the driver's side of the console. If you apply voltage to the two wires at the connector, the motor should run at full speed. If so, the pushbutton unit is dead.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter, I am speaking of the connection for the controller/regulator connection above teh firewall. There are 3 wires, red, black, and yellow. I've read the yellow should read anywhere from 1-7volts. When I checked the yellow with a test light, it didn't luminate. Would that much power be enough to light up the test light? The red tested out ok, but yellow was nothing. So I thought maybe to run a wire from the red and black to their respective locations at the blower motor itself, thus bypassing the regulator.

What do you think?

Thanks
David

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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David:

The speed control is actually a transistor switching unit that grounds the blower windings on a duty cycle. I'm not sure of the wiring, so don't connect battery voltage to anything there! I seem to remember a connector on the side of the heater box inside the car that is probably the blower motor, and you could connect the battery voltage there.

A test lamp will have a 12V bulb, so you won't get anything more than a very dim glow at 7V no matter what the amperage, and since that is a signal line anyway, the lamp will never light. You will have to use a voltmeter to see what the voltage is.

I'll try to dig up the instructions for removing the heater box to verify the connections.

You should try a search on blower regulator/speed control, I'm sure this was discussed quite a bit a couple years ago.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!