Bruno,
Yes, the long air-con compressor mounting bolt that also mounts a bracket for the hose also gave me trouble. To extract that bolt, I had to remove the plastic panel at the lower left side of the engine bay. To remove the plastic panel, I had to drop the front sway bar! Usually the 124 is easy to work on but this complicated this job somewhat. The other end of the hose presented a problem too. The pipe nut was extremely tight and took quite some time to loosen. Fortunately I carry tools with me on long journeys.

newr,
I cannot offer advice relating to this hose on your 560. Apart from the issues above, replacing the hose on the 300TE was straight forward. Even though it fits between the engine block and alternator, it was not difficult to feed it through without removing the alternator. The rubber grommet in the bracket for the hose near the alternator was hard and crumbled when trying to remove it. The new hose only included the lower bracket and grommet but fortunately the grommet from this bracket for the old hose was still good and could be used in the upper bracket.

Greg

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

Thanks for the post. I just removed my oil pan from my 1990 300TE, and now would be a damn fine time to inspect that hose. Check my pic in the how do you remove the oil pan thread

Saint, I would not replace it unless it is leaking. It costs 200$.

Greg, many thanks for your reply. I wass less patient with the plastic shield and just cut it somewhat with the angle grinder to be able to bend it out of the way. Probably not the best practice.
Bruno