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#16
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Quote:
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
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#17
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NO, don't get the wheels re-balanced and rotated first. Your indie may not have adequate experience with this sort of situation. As I said earlier, I went through the same thing. It took a well experienced old mechanic to tell me that the first step was to check the tires and rims and then he found the problem and now I have no vibrations whatsoever.
Tell your indie to put the tire + rim on that balancing machine and then check to see if the wheel is bent and make sure the tire is smooth and round all the way. The reason for that is because even if the bent rim is mounted on, say, on the driver's side of the front axle, when you rotate it and put it at the back, the vibrations will persist, though to a less extent. Just have your indie check ALL FOUR tires and rims. I bet you that's where your problem lies.
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1999 Mercedes-Benz S600, 103K miles - garage queen 1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver |
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#18
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I know this thread is very old but....
Did you ever find the solution? Another (typical at 45-55 mph) vibration issue could be caused by a bad wheel bearing or hub. I've experienced this both on a 86 BMW 325e and 88 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 In these cases it was vibrating around 50 mph and was the right hand (passenger) side front wheel hub. By the way I just replaced the center support bearing & steering damper on my 91 Mercedes 300TE 4MATIC (CSB it was definitely failing, but not damper. So I have a very good condition SD if someone is interested). The flex discs are still good, though I'm still getting a slight vibration. Yes I marked the alignment points before taking the driveline apart, and the U joint is good also. So I have to check differential, subframe, and engine mounts and see where it's coming from.
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