I have a 2002 S430. At 25000 miles I needed all new pads and rotors (rotors rusted). At 45000 miles I need them all replaced again (rotors again rusted). Most all mileage was highway miles. To top this off a "new" special tool is needed to do work so only Mercedes garage can do it. Anyone out there know what my brake problem is - is it auto design flaw? Thanks

Firstly, did a mechanic/shop tell you the brakes were worn or did you work it out/light came on?

Secondly were the rotors actually warped or undersize? a little surface rust near the hub is normal.

Thirdly, I'd love to know what this special tool is for the brakes.........The only vehicle that needs more than a pin punch, spanner, torx or hex socket is a SBC equiped vehicle (which yours isn't) and thats just to disable the braking system electrically.

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Alex.

MB Tech
Sydney, Australia
Volvo 122S
W201 190D 2.5 manual
W202 C240
W203 C32

I agree, I wouldn't be replacing brakes because the rotors are rusty, unless it's to the point that the rotors are badly pitted with rust or the wheels won't even turn. What was the complaint that lead to the service visit? Did you complain about squeeling brakes and that's why they replaced parts?
On this car, I also have no idea what special tool would be required to work on these brakes.
If the car is driven regularly, rust shouldn't be a problem, unless the storage area is very humid, such as underground parking or a dirt floor garage.
Gilly

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My car never squeeled when brakes applied - rather it was a shutter - both times. Once at 45000 mukes and once at 25000. All highway miles and I park in enclosed garage. Both times rotors warped and rusted? Could it be a design problem??

I will find out this special tool today and post it. THanks RUdy

Have you had another shop rotate the tires? They could have torqued the lugs with an air wrench, causing warped rotors.

Do you wash the wheels when they are hot? Cold water on hot rotors can cause this too if I am correct

Cast iron rusts, there will be surface rust on even new rotors after a few days. Now, if the rotors are severely warped and causing the shddering, then they should be replaced. Above poster made a good point about a primary cause of rotor warping, putting the lug bolts on too tight. Is anything actually worn, or is the complaint just shuddering upon braking?

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

A few MINUTES is more like it.
By the time I dry the car, after washing it, the rotors have a light haze of rust on them.
To avoid this, I back the car up about 50 feet, with light pressure on the brakepedal, then move ahead the same way.
This generates enough heat/friction, to clean the rotors off & not mess up my shiny wheels first time I apply the brakes.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

buddy with a new M3 was having the same/similair problem...tracked it down to DeltaSonic drive through car washes after spirited driving and or hard braking from speeds..ie thruway...BMW Dealer kept replacing them under warranty but when they tracked it down the documented it, and told him to chill out before hitting the rotors with water...

hope this helps
jake

ps- what do you mean by rusted..as mentioned rotor faces rust within minutes if there is moisture in teh air...i put hightemp nevercease between the rotor and the rim to keep the surfaces as true and metallic as possible - just a skim coat, super light....not gobs

Wrapped rotors at 25,000mi and 20,000mi is an indication that something is wrong.
Possible causes:
* Uneven wheel studs torque.
* Sized caliper pistons or pinched brake hose or defective master cylinder keeping constant hydraulic pressure in the brake system,
* Driving habits? (constant left foot on the brake pedal)
Surface rust does not normally justify replacing the rotors, unless the rotors are pitted.

a hint for all owners of ABS equipped cars.

one day when it rains go into an empty parking lot get up some speed and brake hard enough to activate the ABS system.

1) you'll be familiar with how the system should feel and sound.
2) it is a great way to exercise the system and keep it functioning properly

plus use the emergency brake once in a while if you tend not to use it regularly.

Hard to beleive, but the warping of rotors from overtorquing is very real. European rotors are apparently inherently thinner than US cars to save weight, at the cost of less to turn - maybe this is why MB says not to turn rotors. I got tires at a place where air tools are not permitted in the removal/installation area - reason: they changed tires on a Jaguar with air tools and had to buy four new rotors.

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Thanks to all for responding to my note regarding rotors and pads going after 25k and again at 45K miles on my 2002 S430. Lo and behold I just got my hands on a memo directly from Mercedes to their "Tech Reps" dated 4/04. Mercedes sites the exact model I have and discusses the exact problem I am having. Guess I'm not the only one. I produced the memo to my Mercedes dealer and he changed his tune. Looks like they will replace with another type of rotor that Mercedes suggested - free of charge to me. Before showing the dealer the memo the price to me was $1,100 - the same I spent a year ago the first time around.

And as for the other good suggestions from all you folks - I will never use my left foot to drive again - go fast - or wash the car. Ralj

ralj,

Does the memo apply to AMG cars; I have replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 C32 three times within 34.000 miles.

Now that you mention it I've seen that memo/TSB. They modified the rotors so that the vented area was thinner allowing for a thicker "wall" of the rotor which reduced instances of warped rotors.

I have only remember 2 sets of warped rotors through my workshop in the last 12months. A C32 and my friends W210T (which is driven very hard).

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Alex.

MB Tech
Sydney, Australia
Volvo 122S
W201 190D 2.5 manual
W202 C240
W203 C32

Wow, interesting discussion. I want you guys' input on this one:

The rotors on my 97 C 230 were replaced before I bought it at the 60k service. They now have 19k on them, and for 3k they have felt warped when braking repeatedly (heat). I asked my service advisor about this and she said, no joke,

"it's common for the C Class to go through rotors as early as 20k."

WHAT? The replacement interval is 60k. Any thoughts? The car goes in for warranty work tomorrow - is there a copy of this memo/TSB I could get to take with me?