PS: Just to clarify, the reason you can't just replace the lock cylinder (what you call the tumbler) is that the lock cylinder can't be removed without inserting the key and turning the key to position #2 (2 clicks).
Gilly

Drill
 

Can't he drill out the pin and remove the assembly. Jim

That's an option if he has a good angle drill, and a sharp, short drill bit he doesn't mind ruining. My experience has been it's easier to remove the upper jacket tube assembly to remove the steering wheel lock. OH and probably the connector to the ignition switch will be ruined so he may want to order that connector too, a good parts man will be able to find it (it's 2 pieces) where they show the wiring harnesses.
Gilly

Used Parts
 

I have a complete assembly, lock cylinder, steering wheel lock, and ignition switch that i just removed from a 90 300E(95K)...same assembly as yours...in one piece with a key...you can have the whole thing and prioity mail for 40 dollars...I can send you a pic or pics of the unit and especially the electrical connector side so you can check it again't what you have...I think that when you drill out the pin you just go in a 1/4 inch .....thats what I do....Jim

This thread is going to be longer than an oil thread soon. Let's cut to the chase and draw a flow chart.

Are you going to buy the car? No.
Then don't worry about it.

Are you going to buy the car? Yes
Order a key by VIN to unlock the doors and trunk.
You do want to lock and unlock doors and trunk don't you?

If you answered yes above and ordered the key,
did it turn the ignition tumbler also? Yes
Then your problem is solved.

Did the key turn the ignition tumbler? No
Then you need to follow Gilly's advice.

Peter

I respect that this is "do-able" and I have done it this way many times, but in my opinion it's easier to just remove the whole jacket tube and work on the sheetmetal collar rather than drilling 1/4" into what amounts to hardened "tool steel" in a very awkward position.

Gilly

Confused
 

I didn't know you could get the whole jacket tube out with out a key. I agree if the whole jacket tube is removeable without a key that that is the way to go..that it is easier to work on the sheetmetal on a work bench or a vise...Jim

Gilly -

I may have misled you. The ignition is in the dash, not in the steering column. They drilled out the tumblers so that the car can be started with a screw driver (classy, huh :) ). There are some problems with doing this. The car thinks it's being stolen. The headlights flash when the doors are opened and the high beams don't work. I have an appointment with the local MB dealer this Wednesday. I have an OE tumbler on order with a new key.

Above the mirror is a black rectangle with the following buttons "Send" "M1" "M2" "D" "End" ? Any ideas what these are for?

In the center dash area, along with the controls for the rear window defroster is a button with a circle of 3 arrows. What is this?

Another mystery. How do you fold down the rear seat? This is a station wagon. We can get the bottom of the seat to fold forward, but can't get the seat back to fold down.

One more thing. My girl friend likes to drive the car.

Ambient temperature when the car was started was -10 F. It started right up. After having set for 3 months.

Thanks for your continued support.

Jon

The thing up on the roof is for a factory cell phone, the M1, etc are memories for phone numbers (YEP that was it back then, 3 numbers!).
The circle of arrows is recirculate mode for the climate control.
Not sure on the back seat, I think you have to have both rear doors open, there is a small plunger in the door jamb that inhibits seat folding unless the door are both open for some reason. Also one of the sides has to go first, because of the privacy shade, assuming it has one. NEED to get an owners manual, I can tell.
You will see what I mean about the different parts I mentioned once they get into it, the part the lock cylinder (part that got drilled out) fits in to engages into the steering column to lock it. I guess you're not visualizing this yet.
The comment about the alarm going off makes no sense, it doesn't work this way, you have an alarm problem which is seperate from the lock cylinder being drilled out, the car doesn't care that a screwdriver is being used to start it.

Gilly

Gilly

Nice job so far on the Sprite resto.
I used to have a 1964.
Just be sure to install DOUBLE throttle return springs.
Not much fun when you're out on a leisurely sunday drive, the SINGLE return spring breaks & those twin SU's go wide open, while you're going around a hairpin bend.
Good thing it only had 65 ? horsepower. ;)

65 hp???
 

65? Hee hee hee! 46.5 hp, pal! I can't wait! "YEAH! It's got a Hemi in it!!!"
I'll remember what you said about the springs, I think (not sure right now) that it actually has 3 springs, one on each carb and one on the link between the carbs. Thanks!
Gilly