|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi,
instead of putting the black lead to ground you need to put it into the outer contact ring of the pick up cable end! But since you put in a new crank sensor already you are looking at the module now...gulp. Check with some guys on the forum to get a used one or try a used parts shop. Good luck, Dokta |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Dokta:
Even when I put the black to the outer ring I did not get 1 volt - maybe .003 volt or so. Anyway, I'll need to find a module. Thanks very much for your help. Cary. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
For anyone who is interested, I just replaced the ignition control module and the car runs normal. I was lucky to find a good used module at a good price. The usual price for a good used one, if available, is about $1200 or so. I also found a manufacturer in Florida who can rebuild this unit and many other ECU's. They charge $975 and provide a one year warranty: Auto and Truck Electronics (ATE), autoecu.com.
Last edited by carymcooper; 03-12-2005 at 06:14 PM. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
ignition module
hi carymcooper
on my 1988 300 SE, I am also having problem with crank but no start, and like you I replaced crank position sensor, my crank position sensor wire looked bad and insulation on the end where it goes into crank was oily so I replaced it and the result was no start, I know it is not fuel problem, when I was testing for spark, initially I was getting very weak and not always, now it is not even sparking at all, my question is, was your coil also bad as well as your ignition module?, I am looking around for a good used ignition module, any help on a location for a used module is appreciated. thanks |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
First let me correct something I posted yesterday: Auto Trucks Electronics can be found at autoecu.com or 800-257-3359. Sorry for the wrong info.
Second: I did replace the coil during my "trouble-shooting" stage because it was nasty looking/old and not too expensive - a cheap fix if it worked, but it did not solve the problem. I would think you should not have a problem finding a module for a 1988 300 SE as that is a 103 motor? and many more of them were made than the 300CE as well as the module being much more simple and cheaper. I would recommend the following contacts: AutoTruckElectronics(see above)to check on a rebuild; SilverStarRecycling.com;EuropeanConnection(800-395-8636);EVERYBENZ@aol.com;MercedesDismantlers.com;MercedesPartsUsed.com;ActionSalvage.com;PotomacGerma n(pgauto.com);Parts-ToGo.com;QualityAutoParts (qaparts.com). Cary Last edited by carymcooper; 03-12-2005 at 01:48 PM. Reason: wrong tel number. |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Spark Plug Replacement - ML320 | ard | ML, GL, G-Wagen, R-Class, Unimog, Sprinter | 18 | 11-30-2008 07:53 PM |
| 190E 2.3 1st cylinder not firing, spark plug is clean | ivanlee190e | Tech Help | 0 | 08-17-2004 03:19 AM |
| Bosch Spark Plugs for 280SEL 6CYL | M_Anker | Vintage Mercedes Forum | 23 | 02-27-2004 11:56 AM |
| Correct Spark Plugs for 88 300CE | aris3000 | Tech Help | 3 | 06-28-2003 02:48 PM |
| 1K Ohm Vrs. 5K Ohm? Difference is..? | Steve Gutman | Tech Help | 5 | 06-17-2003 10:02 AM |