The turkey baster method doesn't accomplish much. It's most definitely the equivalent of simply changing the engine oil filter then adding enough oil to fill it up again. This is definitely not very effective.

The return line in the drain pan and flushing at least two quarts through the system is the method on the ASE test and as far as I'm concern the only way to truly FLUSH the system.

Only the latest of models that specify ATF should use ATF, earlier models, even the ones from the eighties and earlier that specify ATF should get Power Steering Fluid. ATF changed in the eighties to a formula that is hard on the early system seals.

Good luck,

thank you, frank! i was a little concerned that having the engine running would create too much pressure in the system. i forgot about removing the relay as a solution. i used to do that to adjust the valves in my bmw...

thanks for clearing that up larry, now i am not sure i can get this done and change the front pads on saturday. if i keep at it, i think i will manage however. :dizzy2: :juggle2: :sweatdrop

Larry - Mercedes in their infinite wisdom says to use MB power steering fluid in my '88 190E. Do you or anyone else know for sure what, if any commercially available P/S fluids are okay to use in our vintage cars? Does Mercedes list any commercially available P/S fluids in their current spec sheets.

Duke

Do you do that with the engine running? Or just cranking it off the battery? It's kind of scary to run the engine with the power steering return line disconnected.

On cold below zero days my ps pump would whine until the engine would warm up a bit. I was running new Febi ps fluid. I changed to the official MB stuff and no more noise, the MB stuff is pretty thin.

Hatterasguy is offering info that I have never heard. Given his info it sounds like you would be better served with the MB stuff in some cars. I have run auto supply p/s fluid in 123 and 124 cars with great success.

Yes the flushing method I describe requires engine running. The fluid goes through VERY fast so you need an assistant to start the engine and turn the steering wheel while you pour through the fluid. When it is empty have the assistant shut down engine immediately.

It is also good to suspend the front wheels to decrease load for the time in which the system temporarily runs dry.

Good luck,

I still support the turkey baster method... I can do it in my work clothes if I have to... it still takes two quarts ...draining and adding over time.

I am close to clear... and am about 1 1/2 quarts into the project on this car.

I don't follow this at all.

The Febi fluid bears the MB part number for PS fluid. The product you buy from MB comes in an identical container, just says MB. FEBI probably makes it for them under contract.

Yes they do. Check the following link. You'll find it on Page 6.

But I still support the notion of using only power steering fluid instead of Dexron III.

BTW, I noticed the people who wrote the booklet don't know how to spell Dexron.

No Febi is different stuff at least the Febi Fastlane sells is. The MB fluid is redish in color and is a very light oil. The Febi stuff is the color of motor oil and is thicker. I compared the two side by side they are different.

The bottles are different as well, the MB stuff is in a Mobil 1 style bottle.

Hatterasguy:

Interesting. I too lined them up side by side, but that was some years back. Apparently the formulation has changed, kinda like the color of MB coolant.

Hard to keep up with all of this.

I've just done mine with the turkey baster method but

>stupid question<
where is the low and high level indicator on an 89 300ce.

I have no makings on the reservoir, nor anything on the plastic sleeve that holds down the spring. The only markings on the plastic sleeve are these long triangles as shown. This sleeve is not shown in the Mercedes Bible nor the Service CD's.

Jorg

Kestas - thanks for the link.

Looks like my S-Class 126 car has been filled with the wrong p/s fluid since ???

I've been using the Febi 000 989 88 03 - blue bottle - $7-$8 a bottle.

The approved product list indicates the S Class uses Pentosis 001 989 24 03 10 - this stuff sells for about $21 a bottle.

Somewhere along the way I took a wrong turn I suppose. Not going to get to concerned about it. Been using Febi for 8 yrs. and if somethings wrong, someone is going to have to point it out.

***************************************************UPDATE******************************************* ***************

Well it just fell on me like a ton of bricks. The approved products list indicates S Class cars use the mega-bucks Pentosis fluid.

The E-Class car, MANY of which carry the M103 motor use the lower priced Febi. My 126 cars has a 103 motor - same as MANY of the E-Class cars, so why would I need the high $$$ Pentosin?

I'm staying with the Febi.

Part number off the bottle of the MB stuff: Q 1 46 0001. It runs about $12 a quart. I only changed it because it was making noise and I figured for $12 it was worth a shot. Febi is fine.

According to the bottle it is Made in the USA for MB in Montvale, NJ.