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#1
01-16-2005, 11:02 AM
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Difficulty Starting
1989 300E
I recently acquired a 300E and encountered difficulty starting the vehicle. It had been sitting for approx 6-8 weeks. The car would crank over but the engine would not engage. Only after numerous attempts and moderate use of the accelerator pedal it would actually start. After the engine started, the idle seemed rather low - 550-600 RPM, and the engine would keep running only with encouragement from the accelerator pedal. Once the car was driven, it would run well. I have confirmed that each cylinder is receiving a spark and also confirmed that the wires are fine. May I assume that this issue is fuel related? If so, what would the diagnostic steps be? Secondly, I have noticed that the seatbelt warning light remains on all the time. What would this be caused by and how would I resolved this issue? Lastly, the powered passenger seatback adjusts for recline position but will not incline back to a vertical position. All other functions of the seat are fully operation. How would one diagnose this problem? Many thanks in advance for any assistance that may be offered. Kind regards, Keen 
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#3
01-17-2005, 01:07 AM
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I had the same cold start issue with my eng. and it went like this.
Wouldn't fire when cranked until I depressed the pedal just a little bit. Then I had to hold it that little bit until it warmed up a little or it would idle so slow it would die. Once the eng. was warm it ran fine. The cold start injector only assist in geting it running so I bypassed that and went to the coolant sensor (notorous for failing) and that was the reson I had no cold running enrichment. That is the easyest to Diagnose and cheepest Idem in the fuel system too. Do a search for coolant temp sensor testing. I also had the same prob. with seat switch only I wasn't able to get it cured with the contact cleaner so I had to disasemble it and clean the contacts it worked great. Good luck.............
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#4
01-26-2005, 04:39 PM
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OVP location
Being a novice DIYer, where would I find the location of the OVP and how do I test if it is working or not?
Secondly, how would one access the contacts for the car seats? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to offer.
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#5
01-31-2005, 09:52 PM
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Update on starting issues
I have searched the site and found a number of suggestions regarding the potential cause of the hard starting issues I am encountering with my 1989 300E.
The plugs and distributor cap and rotor have been changed. The wires have been tested and are not arcing The cold start injector valve has been inspected and confirmed operational The OVP fuse has been inspected and is fine After taking it to a second mechanic, he has indicated that it is a fuel related problem and has suggested that we test the fuel pressure in the system. He indicated that he suspects that there may be a leak in either the fuel injectors or fuel regulator valves near the fuel pump. Would anyone be able to confirm whether this is a viable conclusion. Another well respected mechanic I spoke to indicated that he would hook it up to a diagnostic machine (ALLEN) and attempt to diagnose the situation that way. Which would be a better alternative? Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you
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#6
01-31-2005, 10:02 PM
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Fuel pressure testing is a basic diagnostic tool and gives the tech a good starting point in any fuel related running/starting condition.
Easy to do and is a must for fuel checks. Sure doe save for a lot of guessing.........
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#8
02-01-2005, 02:03 PM
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Typically, the car will start only after 10-20 minutes of cranking the engine if it has sat overnight. If the car has been running and has been shut off for an hour or two, it will start with only a few tries. Any time beyond the 2-3 hour mark would have adverse affects on its ability to start.
I did read on one posting that it may be a fuel related problem where there may be leak caused by the fuel injectors or Fuel pump relay allowing air into the system. At this time, I am uncertain if this is a viable explanation but have agreed to have a fuel pressure test conducted. Many thanks.
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#9
02-02-2005, 12:44 PM
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I hope you meant to write "10-20 seconds of cranking", not minutes. That would be a serious strain on your battery and starter.
My 1995 E420 has had some cold start problems recently. Lots of cranking and a little gas needed to start the car when cold - problem gets better when engine is started warm. Since I used can of fuel injector cleaner, the problem has gone away. Perhaps it as some deposit build-up? Anyway - it can't hurt to try. Use a 12 oz. can of Chevron Techron in less than 1/2 a tank of gas. Try and do more stop-and-go driving vs. burning the whole tank up on the highway. it's the soaking in between engine starts that helps Techron work. This would be a cheap place to start before throwing parts at your problem. That's my preferred method of troubleshooting. Cheap first. Troy 1995 E420 90k
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#10
02-02-2005, 06:27 PM
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hard start problem solved in my 190E 2.6
I had a hard start problem and changed out entire fuel pump system with no success. I was checking all the sensors on the top of head on the intake side and found a vacumn sensor with two male nipples coming out of the top. One of the nipples was cracked enough that it came off in my hand with the hose still attached to it. I hooked both vacumn lines into the single nipple that was still attached to the sensor with a splitter and sealed of the hole that was left in the sensor with clear rtv sealant and allowed it to cure overnight. My car has cranked like it was brand new every since then, no adding pedal, no tapping of pedal. I do not touch pedal, to crank it, on purpose just to see if it will keep doing what it is supposed to do. And it has so far. After closer inspection of that particular sensor I found the letters "CARB" imprinted on the top of the sensor beside the hole where the one nipple had broken off. Makes sense huh!!!! Try it and see. One little crack can drive you nuts. Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
190E2
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#11
02-04-2005, 05:11 PM
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Hard Starts
1989 300E
Many thanks to all of you that have contributed to this thread. This problem generally occurs after the vehicle has been sitting for 3+ hours and overnight. I have just had a fuel pressure test done and the mechanic indicated after the test that there was a slow pressure leak occuring. He rationalized that it was in the front half of the car and not the check valve by the fuel pump (the reason for this was that the check valve leak would be more rapid). After making this determination, he then removed the one of the injectors to inspect the spray pattern. At this point, he noticed that it was spraying in an irregular patter. He also noted that the throttle body showed some minor residue on the inside. It was then concluded that since the aperture of the injectors were not closing properly, it was releasing some of the pressure from the fuel system. Since this car had been sitting for 2 months prior to starting with very low mileage, it was suggested that the engine would be attached to a "motorvac" machine and cleaned with a combination of fuel and detergent. This would clean the injectors as well as the O2 sensor and other vital components. It was further explained to me that this may clear some of residue that may be impeding the injector from spraying properly and causing a potential vacuum leak in the fuel system. After the process was completed, I drove the car home and did not find a significat change in performance. Secondly, after shutting the engine down and attempting to restart it again, it seemed to show the same reluctance to start. It will turn over when cranked but will not engage without depressing the pedal. It would seem that it does not have the extra kick (or infusion of gas) to allow it to start on its own. The mechanic suggested driving the vehicle over the weekend and observind whether it would start. If this is not resolved, he suggested replacing the injectors. My thoughts are that if the cleaning did not work, would it be advisable to replace the injector since we cannot conclusively prove that they are at fault. Thank you in advance for any additional insight that any of the members of this forum are able to offer.
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#12
02-04-2005, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
If cleaning the seat switch does not fix. (Does it feel like there is a broken spring in seat?) This happened to me: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105997 You have to just about disassemble the seat from the back to get in there and unbolt it from the floor to get under there. You can then see your wires pretty well. Sounds like you might have a few problems to deal with but none to serious. Knock on wood. Good luck
__________________
-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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#13
02-07-2005, 08:19 PM
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I have driven the car for several days after the engine was pumped with a cleaner. My mechanic had indicated that since the car was not driven very much, the injectors seemed to be clogged up which accounts for the difficulty starting ( he determined this by doing a fuel system pressure test which indicated that there was a leak ).
Much to my dismay, this cleaning has not improved the starting issues I was having. The mechnic suggested replacing the injectors next. Before going this route, should I test the OVP relay (even though the ABS light is not on ) or the coolant temperature sensor? Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
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#15
02-07-2005, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
of issues after a few tanks. but mostly its time to get a second opinion. george
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