Those relays look like VW headlight relays - look for headlight relays at any accessory/car parts store.

__________________
1991 300 SEL
218,000 Km

"Xsbank's rules of mechanical intervention: Always go for the easiest solution first; 90% of what ails a gasoline engine is ignition; After that its all a WAG."

Guys, I installed the $45 universal Mercedes eBay unit on my '91 W126 today.
In a netshell: it worked like a dream the first try!!!!!!!!!

No additional relays to buy, no additional alarm wiring, just the 4-wire hookup at the pump wires like Costanza did; plus one violet wire over to the rear parking light conector. Bam, done!

Locks work, alarm arms and disarms properly, and the parking lights flash once to lock, twice to unlock.

This is too good to be true!

A few comments:

- I have a '91 300SE, which has the driver door vacuum switch, but does not have the "convenience module" mentioned in some of the earlier install articles.
- I Hooked it up to the blue (passenger door) wire at the pump, and got the power/gnd from the rd/wht and the brown wires on the pump (just like Costanza's 4-wire diagram on this thread).
- I did have to tie some wires from the unit together, but the instructions were clear enough on this.
- I tied the the violet park light wire directly to pin 6 on the left taillight.

I tried various tests with the alarm, locking and unlocking with both the remote and the key. It seems any combination of locking/unlocking using the remote or the key will properly arm/disarm the alarm. Cool!

Only issue I had was when I was testing various sequences of remote/key/alarm trigger. Sometimes the remote would lose its sequence if the key was used or the alarm was triggered. In that case you sometimes had to cycle the remote button through one lock/unlock cycle so it could relearn.Then it worked fine again, and would even kill a beeping alarm.

So, I would call this one a 110% success.


DG

Good luck!

You have much more patience than many others including myself! I could say with much assurance that my results would not have come out as well as yours.

Yes.
I had the weird, " losing its place" issue on my 2.3-16v 190e also. SOmetimes if you would use a key or combination of unlocking manually and with the key the system would lose its place and try to lock the car when it was already locked or unlock when unlocked. In any case a second attempt would allow the system to realize where it was and work correctly. AND. If this is the only issue with being able to unlock my dorrs without a key fromnow on, I can totally accept it.
It works great is I just dont mess with it. Unlock and lock with key fob and it works correctly every time.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Yeah, Chris, that little confusion by the remote won't EVER happen, unless the car is broken into, or the keyfob battery dies and we have to use the key - so no biggie at all.

One of the guys on this thread (or another) had trouble with his system just clicking and not opening the doors. When the remote is confused that's exactly what happens if you don't go thru a lock/unlock button-push cycle.

I'm so excited - I still have a pink wire that can fire something else; think I might install a little soft beeper to go with the blinking lights.

DG

Mine was a REC-11 from Omega, but basically the same as what you used to do the job. It came with a piezo buzzer to provide audible feedback when operating buttons and programing but it is very very quiet. I think I will use a 30 amp relay and the piezo trigger wire to operate the car's horn instead of the buzzer so I can hear that it received the button input. Also, I have a pink wire 3rd channel that I dont have a use for, a trunk unlock/popper is useless with the MB trunk lock and opening mechanism. Closing of opening a window or the sunroof just sounds like a wiring nightmare and asking for trouble and I cant think of any other uses for it. Any ideas?

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

My new Caddy Wagon remote start turns on the seat heaters while I'm having coffee, still in the house. Now that is technology at its best. That would be a wiring nitemare (since I don't have seat heaters in the old Benz).
One thing I won't try is tying that pink wire to the alarm horn (to beep when locking/unlocking). After all the alarm issues from the guys here, I'm gonna leave it alone.

DG

I took no chances on the install and isolated every wiring splice into the OEM harness with diodes, big ones, like 6 amp diodes. Nothing can feed back to the alarm or vice versa. I will be sure to continue the good practice when I tie into either the horn or alarm horn, or amybe just an add on horn to be safe, but any way, always isolate with diodes as to not feed back juice to the car's harness and cause bad things to happen at the very least.
Relays and diodes are your best friends when adding electronics to your car.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Do you add the diode in series ? How about some diagrams to enlighten us all.

I suck at making diagrams on the computer, I'll work on it...Yes, in series. Typically you want to use a good diode anytime you splice power to another OEM power wire, otherwise, you can get a feed back of electricity when the factory wire is energized, anything like lighting, relays, horns, antennas, windows, etc all should be used with a diode. I'll TRY to do some diagrams.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

DG/Chris,
What are the exact model Keyless system did you purchase?

You said the lights flash when locking & unlocking. Does the dome light illuminate like when using the key? Do you have a confirmation auditable churp?

On your units, do they have a Remote Panic Mode? How is the Panic mode activated/deactivated?

And finally, for the windows & sunroof. Does the windows rollup/down OR sunroof open/close with the remote (like with the key)?

Scotty,
I used a REC-11 from Omega. Many different ones out there and they are all about the same. Window and sunroof operation is much much more involved and not a direct setup on any unit i know of.
Panic is a simple 4th channel on the remote and is easy, push and hold to set off, push again to stop.
You can set most up to include turning on the interior lighting when you lock and unlock, I did to mine. It also flashed headlamps and the horn honks as a signal that it unlock./locked.
It did have a third channel, but I had nothing left to use it for, sunroof was very involved and I could only make it do one window easily and it is hard to wire to make it do the window up and down so only one way is easy, I decided to leave it alone. No need for a trunk pop since the car has a deck spoiler and is heavy to pop and auto unlocks with the doors.
Chris
Good luck.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

Thanks Chris,
I just purchased the Omega REC-11 as well. Planning to install next weekend with information found here. Im currently trying to determine if I will need relays for my 95 C280.

How many diodes did you use? At this point, Im only planning to use 2: one for the Omega power wire & one for the blue drivers door wires. But where/how do you connect the unit to the Horn, headlights and interior lights? Im thinking of using the emergency flashers instead of headlights but must find a connection point.

Please explain how to wire up the diodes and the diode size required. Dont know anything about diodes. How many volts (12v?) and how many amps?
Where to purchase them? Radio shack?

This is sooo cool... Ive been wanting to install a remote for years on this car..

Go to Radio Shack and buy 6amp diodes, they are larger than a typical diode but look the same, black with a silver or grey stripe. Power will flow towards the stripe and not the other way around. You will need a 30amp relay to use the horn, the trigger wire to the horn is not enough to set it off properly, use the trigger wire to activate the relay and a 12v continuous source for the horn power from the relay.
The door lock trigger does not need a relay and neither does the interior lighting trigger. I did use a relay for the headlamps and I pulled the power from the output to the lights at the headlight switch, an easy place to use and work from.
PS - Change your interiro dome lights out with hi power LED festoon bulbs from www.ledlight.com and you will like them a lot more, no heat issues, and a super white/blue tint to the light like the brand new MB cars. Plus, a lot more light output. About $14 each but worth every penny.

__________________
Christopher Henkel
1990 190E 2.6 - Arctic white SOLD
1986 190E-16v - Blauswartze
1993 300CE - SOLD
2003 W208 CLK 320 Cabriolet - Magma Red

LED Falson Bulbs - Great Idea!!

What size do we need? My bulbs is like 1 1/2"
They now sell two types: One filament and Two filament.
Also 2 brightness: Super White (5500K) and Hi power.

Which one did you freaking order??
Wayyy too many choices... lol