Trying to figure this problem out, and need help.
This car has started in cold weather down to single digits. Starts better when plugged in. But last week all of the sudden it wouldn't start even plugged in unless I cranked several times for a long time. First I figured I had some glow plugs out, changed 5 glow plugs and couldn't get the #1 out ( different story but need advice to remove a stuck glow plug too) Out of the ones I replaced they seemed to all have the right resistance. Started right up ( in the garage ) that next day leaving for work same thing cranked forever to get it started. Removed and cleaned all the injectors. Ran the smoothest it had since I bought the car last October. Drove it all day, that night same thing cranked forever before it started.
It starts fine after it warms up. It is warmer here right now, but I need this to be a dependable car.

Any help? Any ideas?

Thanks

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1987 MB 300TD, 245,000 miles running great, converted to WVO.
1996 Ford F350 2WD,PSD,CC,DRW custom conversion, soon to run on WVO.
2003 Toyota Matrix,4WD (wifes)

You don't need to pull a GP to test it, that can be done with it in place. I would test all 6 GP's again.

Un plug the GP wiring harness from the GP relay that is located on top of the left wheel well. Connect your negative lead from your multimeter to any ground source. Next, look at the relay plug after you unplug it, and you will see the pin receivers numbered 1 to 6. Connect your positive lead to pin 1, set your meter to Ohms. Turn it on. You should get something between 0.1 and 0.6 or better. If all you get is 0.0 that GP is no good. Next do #2 and so on.

Sounds like you have a GP problem. Also check the bar fuse in the relay. Sometimes they get corroded and don't allow full current to flow but at that point they usually blow.

One bad GP will make starting difficult no matter if you had a block heater on or not. Two bad GP's make it really hard to start! I'm not sure you could get it running with only three GP's working!

Good luck.............BB

The glow plug relay has 2 sets of plugs on it, the one with 6 fat wires feeds the power to the plugs the other one is what turns on the relay. The cover on top of the plugs should pop off then pull off the small plug and look very closely at the connectors, the brown wire on mine had white corrosion in it and was making an intermitent connection that gave me the same hard start problems you are having. It was realy hard to see the corrosion but once i scraped it off it has been working great.

You can check to see if the relay is working buy turning on the key and pulling off the small connector then reconnect it and you will hear a loud click.

The relay is much easier to work on if you remove the 2 10mm nuts and take it off the wheelwell, it does not need to be bolted down to work.

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82 Rabbit diesel (first d), 84 Jetta turbo d (300k when sold), 83 240d (305k when sold), 84 F250 6.9d w/Banks turbo(parts truck), 86 F250 6 cyl.gasser(waiting for 6.9d), 84 300d ( 347k Sold 8/04), Y2k New Bettle TDI (185k miles), 95 740IL (wifes), 87 300TD (206k Sold 7/05), 05 Passat TDI Wagon

Have a look at the OVP relay.

Does the glow light come on and turn off?

What's the ambient temp when it takes long to start?

Crack an injector line and see if the injectors are getting fuel during all this cranking. You might want to crack all the fuel lines. You might be sucking air and it takes that long for the IP to self-bleed when you start.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

I changed the GP's due to not knowing the age of them, I knew at least one was bad so if I go to all that trouble to replace one might as well replace them all, will check them again.

The realy appears to be working, had not tried your proceedure but I leave the key on till I hear the relay disengage then try to start the car.

Ambient temps are usuall below 35* when having this problem. The temps yesterday were 65+ and did not have any trouble starting her.

The GP light has never come on in the car since I have had it, But since I changed the GP's the light is now working.

I have had that air problem before, this is different. I know they are pretty hard to run with any air in the fuel sysem.

Have NOT looked at the OVP relay, what is it and what does it control, how do you troubleshoot it?

__________________
1987 MB 300TD, 245,000 miles running great, converted to WVO.
1996 Ford F350 2WD,PSD,CC,DRW custom conversion, soon to run on WVO.
2003 Toyota Matrix,4WD (wifes)

Long shot, but is your engine shut off lever on the IP all the way up when starting?

Engine shut off is vacuum controlled from a vacuum valve within the ignition switch. If there is any vacuum leaks in any of the vac hoses it may introduce a partly closed shut off at the IP (fuel on/off) due to a vac leak it may start harder, but once running generates more vacuum thus opening the shut off all the way. Just a thought!

If you did an Ohms test, you would know for sure if your GP's are good. Now check and see if they are getting 12-V juice.

Have not checked the lever but will today. Did an Ohms check, but will check to make sure I am getting 12v at the GP and the relay.

I still have #1 GP is definatlly bad but it is stuck. any ideas on how to remove it without breaking off the tip?

__________________
1987 MB 300TD, 245,000 miles running great, converted to WVO.
1996 Ford F350 2WD,PSD,CC,DRW custom conversion, soon to run on WVO.
2003 Toyota Matrix,4WD (wifes)