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  #31  
Old 05-18-2005, 04:42 PM
gilwave's Avatar
busy upgrading my 560$EL
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey, exit 55 (287)
Posts: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Besides it is so easy to change the mileage on these cars if you are so inclined. I could knock 100k off my odo in an afternoon if I wanted.
Really? it's that easy? Now you've got me wondering about mine.



-g

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1983 300SD (Sold at 198K)
1989 560SEL (205k) - slowly restoring
2009 Toyota Camry Hybrid (6k) - daily driver
1995 Colt Vista AWD (145k) - fun car! spare
1991 Buick Riviera 3.8l (85k) - fur die Kinder
RIP: 1965 LeMans/GTO Convertable -my first
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(blew the motor racing a '69 GTX - bummer)
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  #32  
Old 05-18-2005, 10:16 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,378
Seriously, if you pass on that SDL please relay the contact info if it's rust-free. The pic you posted of the back seat can't be loaded for me for some reason. hmmm. Oh yeah, I got my 250,000 kiloter badge today! It only took about 2-3 weeks I believe.

Thanks
David
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  #33  
Old 05-18-2005, 10:33 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
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Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
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Thanks. As much as I would love to get the 300SDL, I think I may not be able to get it, because I think the owner was offered a lot more than the $2500 I was willing to pay. I can go a little higher than that, but really did not want to spend my entire savings (saved for a work car), because I wanted to keep some for repairs, because at that mileage, knowing my luck, something would probably go wrong. See- thats always my problem. When I do finally find a local Mercedes (this one is fairly local- about 100 miles away)- it is ALWAYS overpriced (in my book). I would be glad to relay the info to you about the SDL- looks like it is going to be out of my range.

I noticed too that the rear seat photo would not enlarge. I have no idea why.

What if I said I could possibly get the 560SEL cheaper? What if the seller would accept an offer- what would be a good price to offer? As mentioned- I do not care about the dents, cracked lens, cracked dash or worn seats, nor would I repair/replace anything but the lens. The body is 100% rust free, so surely that accounts for something. I do not know.

Thanks again.
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  #34  
Old 05-18-2005, 11:15 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by gilwave
Really? it's that easy? Now you've got me wondering about mine.



-g
The guage cluster pops right out, if you don't care about the dash use a screw driver. If you do make a set of metal hooks up out of wire and stick them in the lower corners. Then you should be able to pop the cluster out and unplug it. After that you need to pull the speedo out and either turn the odo back yourself, or just put in another speedo showing much less mileage. Thats why you always look at the colors of the needles. If the speedo needle looks different it could have been swaped. I have a 170k speedo out of my 420 parts car, I could sell my SDL as a 170k mile car if I was dishonest. Thats why service records are so important on these cars. I bet half if not more of the sub 100k cars on ebay are roll backs.

86560SEL you would probably be better off paying more for the SDL if it is that much better. What are they asking? $4k?
I'd offer $1,500 maybe $2k for the 560, it is a beater, my parts car that I junked had a better interior.
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  #35  
Old 05-18-2005, 11:55 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
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Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
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Thanks Hattaras- they were originally asking $2000 for the 560 and he was going to deliver for $250 - for a total of $2250.

I am not sure about the 300SDL. He was "willing" to take $2000, but now getting offers over $2500. $2500 would be the max I could pay, because I want to set some $$$ aside for needed mechanical repairs if needed.

Like you suggested- I was thinking of offering $1500 for the 560, or $1750 if he delivers it and IF he can guarantee that the smoking has stopped. He said it did. I am hoping it is where it had set for nearly 5 years without being started. It is definitely in need of a fluid changes (oil, tranny fluid and anti-freeze). Also a new PS hose is in order.
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  #36  
Old 05-19-2005, 12:18 AM
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Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
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Aha. The 560 owner said that someone else was going to be looking at the car and if they did not buy, he was sure it would bring $2000 at a local auction, so I guess that one is out- obviously firm on the price.
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  #37  
Old 05-19-2005, 08:04 AM
gilwave's Avatar
busy upgrading my 560$EL
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey, exit 55 (287)
Posts: 255
At this point I have three words for you:

GET THE SDL!
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2005, 10:36 AM
86560SEL's Avatar
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OK.
Well see what happens. Maybe I will win the lottery or something.
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  #39  
Old 05-19-2005, 11:31 AM
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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For $2500 you will probably end up buying a piece of **** 126 car. On your budget you would be well advised to look at cheaper models, like 123 diesels, where $2500 is more likely to buy a decent car.

Buying the top of the line MB (560SEL) at bottom of the barrel prices will probably end up costing you thousands of dollars if you want the car to be correct.

Unless any car you look at has had head work (gassers), suspension/steering work, AC repairs etc, it will need big $$ to make right. Also, unless you really know what you what you are doing, don't fool yourself into thinking you can tackle these big jobs yourself.

If this is your first MB, I strongly suggest you start out with a more economical model where your budget will allow you to buy a really nice car, rather than a beater. This will make your introduction in to MB ownership much more pleasant.
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  #40  
Old 05-19-2005, 11:56 AM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
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Location: Milford, CT
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I second the above post, I made the mistake of buying a tired MB thinking I could bring it up to spec. Well if you want a project car to restore and play with it is great, but if you are looking for a reliable driver look else where.

My $2,500 SDL is up to $10k and it still has a leaking trans and will be needing more suspension work shortly. I have done very little cosmetic work to, the interior is very nice.

If my car was totaled tomarrow my next MB would be a one owner full records car from southern CA.

Some people get lucky but as a general rule you are not going to get a very nice W126 for $2k. I have looked at a lot of W126's and mine was in the best shape of all of the sub $3k cars I saw. You can get a pretty decent W123 though, or a Buick.
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  #41  
Old 05-19-2005, 03:00 PM
gilwave's Avatar
busy upgrading my 560$EL
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey, exit 55 (287)
Posts: 255
It's been said "There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Benz", and I agree.

All the advice I have read here (and there is a LOT of advice, the wealth of information is staggering) boils down to:

1) Look first for a No Rust vehicle (Southern Cal preferred)

2) Service records a must (low miles preferred, single PO a bonus)

3) When feasible, get a PPI

I was prepared to spend $7k or so more on my $3000 560SEL, or $10k total. I didn't have $10k all at once, so I bought what I could afford and am taking my time with the restoration.

Next time, I will buy a clean, pre-1995 W140 with low miles, from a single PO with all the records intact. If that costs me $12 - 15k, so be it. I don't want to restore the next one, I just want to drive it!

-gil
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  #42  
Old 05-19-2005, 05:48 PM
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Location: Clifton Park, NY
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Hatty

Just drive back and forth in front of a Senior center or McDonalds from 7am to 10.30 am.

My e300 just got clobbered by a 73 year old guy who pulled in front of me.
He turned left into my fender while looking right to make sure nobody was coming "from his blind side" (as he put it)

Didn't pay any f!$cking attention to the driver's side mind you.


PMU
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Previously loved
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  #43  
Old 05-19-2005, 08:47 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
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Thanks. That is what I thought made this white 560 a decent choice was because it was a 100% rust free car (normal here in the south) and it was all original paint- so I know it was never in a crash. The good thing about the 300SDL, is that it is also a 100% rust free southern car.

I do have other options- there is a very local 82' 300SD for $1800 in perfect running order, but it has belonged to a kid and I think it has probably seen some abuse. Another thing is that the A/C is on the fritz- and this is a black car, with black interior.

Another is the 90' 300TE wagon. It is still available and I wonder if I should reconsider it. It has the "dancing" temperature guage, needs rear struts, but other than that- it is supposed to be very sound- also- 100% rust free.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gilwave
It's been said "There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Benz", and I agree.

All the advice I have read here (and there is a LOT of advice, the wealth of information is staggering) boils down to:

1) Look first for a No Rust vehicle (Southern Cal preferred)

2) Service records a must (low miles preferred, single PO a bonus)

3) When feasible, get a PPI

I was prepared to spend $7k or so more on my $3000 560SEL, or $10k total. I didn't have $10k all at once, so I bought what I could afford and am taking my time with the restoration.

Next time, I will buy a clean, pre-1995 W140 with low miles, from a single PO with all the records intact. If that costs me $12 - 15k, so be it. I don't want to restore the next one, I just want to drive it!

-gil
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  #44  
Old 05-19-2005, 09:43 PM
fahrgewehr2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 1,264
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
Thanks. That is what I thought made this white 560 a decent choice was because it was a 100% rust free car (normal here in the south) and it was all original paint- so I know it was never in a crash. The good thing about the 300SDL, is that it is also a 100% rust free southern car.

I do have other options- there is a very local 82' 300SD for $1800 in perfect running order, but it has belonged to a kid and I think it has probably seen some abuse. Another thing is that the A/C is on the fritz- and this is a black car, with black interior.

Another is the 90' 300TE wagon. It is still available and I wonder if I should reconsider it. It has the "dancing" temperature guage, needs rear struts, but other than that- it is supposed to be very sound- also- 100% rust free.
An $1800 SD owned by a kid? I'm not sure how to tell you this, but you are looking at JUNK. How can it be in perfect running order, if it has probably seen abuse?

If the owner of the wagon wasn't bothered by a temperature gauge that danced around, do you really think the car was maintained by the book? Or at all?

With the amount of money you have to spend, I suggest you buy a 123 Diesel from a regular on this site.

Good luck.
__________________
'90 300SE 298k
-300K and it gets put into retirement.
'80 300D 255k Purchased new by family in 1980.

Had a:
1973 220 (gas)
1980 300SD
1992 400E
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  #45  
Old 05-19-2005, 10:32 PM
gilwave's Avatar
busy upgrading my 560$EL
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey, exit 55 (287)
Posts: 255
It's tuff with so many choices.

-g

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