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  #1  
Old 05-16-2005, 10:36 PM
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Location: Orange Park, Florida
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Unhappy Accessing the ignition switch

The ignition switch should be the starting problem on my 1982 380SL and I have most of the center console loosened or removed. How do I get the dashboard/panel surrounding the key switch removed so I can replace the iginition switch?

I removed the radio and AC switch panel and have the console loose but not fully removed. It overlaps the edge of the panel coverning the ignition but I don't know how to proceed. Some help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry K.

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  #2  
Old 05-17-2005, 09:00 AM
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I think you have to remove the ignition tumbler to get to the switch.

Perform a search. Removal of the ignition tumbler has been well documented in this forum. It's very easy to do as long as you can get the key to the #1 position. If you can't get the key to the #1 position, it may require a jack hammer and some plastic explosives!

Jeff Pierce
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2005, 12:37 PM
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I really have no intentions of removing the tumbler (especially after reading the other posts).

The switch is secured to the rear of the ignition with three screws and should be a fairly straight-forward job once I get access.

I need to know how to remove the plastic surrounding the ignition (key) so I can reach the rear of the switch with a screwdriver. Do I remove the instrument cluster, dashboard, etc?
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2005, 12:07 AM
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What makes you think that the electrical part of the ignition switch is your problem?

Peter
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2005, 09:19 AM
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Starting the car was normal and then failed without any warning, indicating an electrical problem.

It is either the starter switch, nuetral safety switch, or starter solenoid (unless you know of something else).

All electrical power appears normal (lights, etc.) and it will not start in any gear. The solenoid makes no clicking noise or any noise for that matter.

Unfortunately, I was not driving the car when this happened. I am told it was driven to a home and then parked. It would not start when attempting to leave. (I then towed it home.)
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2005, 10:36 AM
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Looking at fastlane it appears that the ignition assembly for the W107 body is somewhat similar to the W123.

I've never touched or seen a W107 so I don't know if this will be applicable. But its worth a shot. On he W123 the clearance is too tight to actually do much of anything with the assembly in place. It is easier to remove the ignition assembly to work on it than to take the dash board apart so you could get in there.

I have a mostly complete site that details removing and working on the W123 ignition assembly.

http://garnet.acns.fsu.edu/~jjs5772/W123/

This reminds me I need to finish the page.
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2005, 10:49 AM
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I suggest you have it diagnosed before you start throwing parts at it unless money is of no concern.

Peter
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2005, 07:39 PM
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I've never done what you are trying to do. But I can tell you this: The ignition switch/tumbler on these cars is like a fourtrace. The reason of course is because these cars are (or at least were in their day) a very desirable car for thieves. So I would be very surprised if you could easily access the ignition switch by merely removing the trim around the tumbler.

But I may be wrong. (It certainly wouldn't be the first time... or the last for that matter.)

Jeff Pierce

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Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
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