I need to R&R the Exhaust Manifold & related components on my 1994 e320 wagon to clean out the egr tube. I have the CDs and Booklands w124 Owners Workshop Manual. Unfortunately, they don't provide enough information for me regarding this R&R.

With the help of the dealer's workshop manual, I've R&Red most everything on 88 Ford 2.9L v6 [Merkur Scorpio], but the Benz system is much more complex. Are there any other more detailed sources available for this Benz engine. My wagon has been sitting for a month now because it won't pass emmissions and I can't afford the $1,000 the shops want to do it.

Thanks
Bob

PS Also need to R&R Engine Temp Sensor. Where's it located?

so exactly is wrong with the car

what will the mechanics do so u can pass the emissions tests ?

if ur wondering how to clean the EGR valve check this old post
click here

are there any check engine lights on the car ? if so what kind of codes do u get ?

Yes, the check engine light is on. Clogged tube, faulty egr and engine temp sensor diagnossed by MB dealership. I don't remember the specific codes.
Thanks
Bob

The egr tube is the metal tube, about 3 feet long, and snakes its way behind the head with a lot of bends in it. It connects into the intake, and the blockage is typically within the first few inches of this connection. I cleaned mine with the head off, so I don't know what the easiest way would be for you to clean it. Some report going through the other end with an old flexible speedometer cable until the blockage can be punched through.

You need technical information with illustrations to guide you through this and other future projects. You should acquaint yourself with the following link:

MB Service Library

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Cleaning the tube out is no longer the recommended fix, as it just returns.
There is now a modified tubing kit for replacement that solves any future blockage.

It is not neccessary to remove the manifold in order to "roto root" the EGR tube. the EGR valve sits on top of the rear manifold and is attached with two studs. For easier access, remove airfilter box, MAF and and associated air duct. Remove manifold heat shield and vacuum line that goes to front of EGR valve.. Disconnect tube flange nut from back side of EGR valve, then remove nuts from studs at base of egr valve. (Careful, these studs break easily---new manifold $100 from salvage yard--I speak from experience) It will take a little bit of wiggling to get the EGR valve off. Tube is now accessable. Carquest sells a generic speedo cable for about $8.00.

Disclaimer: I don't know if you can do damage by inserting the speedo cable to far. Also don't know if deposits that you break loose can get inside the engine somewhere and cause problems. I think this is a band aid fix. I have a high mileage car (178,000 miles) and the head gasket leaks a little bit. I did this procedure with the thought that if things go wrong, I'll remove the head and do a complete top overhaul. I'm not sure I would do this to a low mileage car.

J. M. van Swaay

I attempted the "roto root", but was unable to get the cable past the rear of the engine. And I was seriously considering R&Ring the tube as Arthur mentions. EGR valve is very easy to access, it's disconnecting the tube at the intake side that "appears" to require removing the intake manifold.

My concern is what cables, hoses etc. must be removed, in what order and any special considerations regarding items that can be made inoperable by mishandeling.

Thanks
Bob