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  #1  
Old 05-28-2005, 06:28 AM
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Buying A '94 S500

I Am Looking At A 94 S500 Coupe W/90k Miles. Can Anyone Please Tell Me If There Are Any Problems With That Year & Model That I Should Be Aware Of And Any Areas That I Need To Look At Closely Before I Buy?

Thanks,
Phr82go
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  #2  
Old 05-28-2005, 08:39 AM
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Most 140s suffered from bad AC evaporators $4,000 dash needs to come out completely. The closing assist pump goes bad $800, most other items are maintenance, suspension, caps and rotors.
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2005, 09:59 AM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
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You should read this ...long... thread that has the opinion of just about everyone.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=106897&highlight=w140%27s
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1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #4  
Old 05-28-2005, 04:16 PM
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I think you would be better served to look at 1991 420 or 560SEL's preferably the 420's. Find one with similar mileage, records, etc and you will have a better car. IMHO. For example check out this web site:

www.vintagesalesonline.com

They have a 420SEL 72K. Car looks great and the dealer is straight up kind of place. I bought my 380SE from him and can still be seen on his web site. His cars aren't cheap but you get what you pay for and he usually brings all his cars up to speed before putting up for sale. He uses the sam indie shop I use.
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2005, 07:07 PM
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'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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I'd buy another one . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by PHR82GO
I Am Looking At A 94 S500 Coupe W/90k Miles. Can Anyone Please Tell Me If There Are Any Problems With That Year & Model That I Should Be Aware Of And Any Areas That I Need To Look At Closely Before I Buy?

Thanks,
Phr82go
if I could find one as good. My '94 has been the best and lowest cost Mercedes that I've ever owned! So don't be deterred; look over the service records, repairs and then judge for yourself.

There's nothing like one on the road. . IMO.
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  #6  
Old 05-28-2005, 08:33 PM
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If the evaporator has been replaced once, how long will it last?

Is it that the original part was no good and they updated it with a better part, or is it that they have a short life span?
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2005, 11:08 AM
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The evaporator issue on W140s is the SAME for all model years, the difference on 98-99 models is that they have not been around as long as previous models, so they haven't started to fail yet.

The culprit lies on the original design by M-B, which mixes alluminun and copper (two materials that don't mix well). The leaks on the evaps always occurs at any of the multiple junctions of those materials.

There is an aftermarket unit that address this problem successfully, which is build entirely with copper. I did put this unit on my E 320 T when the original evap failed. It is warrantied by the manufacturer for TEN YEARS! Any leaks and they will replace it free of charge (including labor).

On the other hand, the original M-B evap is just a betting game, it could last less than year, it could last up to five. It all depends on your luck. If it lasts more than five years, consider yourself very lucky. That is why I will always consider original evap fixes by M-B a tricky solution.

There is a full copper evap for the W140, it costs about 40% more than the original, but it is worth its price.
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Old 05-29-2005, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rosich
The evaporator issue on W140s is the SAME for all model years, the difference on 98-99 models is that they have not been around as long as previous models, so they haven't started to fail yet.

The culprit lies on the original design by M-B, which mixes alluminun and copper (two materials that don't mix well). The leaks on the evaps always occurs at any of the multiple junctions of those materials.

There is an aftermarket unit that address this problem successfully, which is build entirely with copper. I did put this unit on my E 320 T when the original evap failed. It is warrantied by the manufacturer for TEN YEARS! Any leaks and they will replace it free of charge (including labor).

On the other hand, the original M-B evap is just a betting game, it could last less than year, it could last up to five. It all depends on your luck. If it lasts more than five years, consider yourself very lucky. That is why I will always consider original evap fixes by M-B a tricky solution.

There is a full copper evap for the W140, it costs about 40% more than the original, but it is worth its price.

What years and models of the W124 have the bad "aluminum+copper mix" evaporator cores?
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2005, 11:51 AM
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'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Good to hear . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rosich
The evaporator issue on W140s is the SAME for all model years, the difference on 98-99 models is that they have not been around as long as previous models, so they haven't started to fail yet.

On the other hand, the original M-B evap is just a betting game, it could last less than year, it could last up to five. It all depends on your luck. If it lasts more than five years, consider yourself very lucky. That is why I will always consider original evap fixes by M-B a tricky solution.
. . from you. What 140 post would be without A.R! Hope you have been well?

My comment, and I know that saying this will severely tempt the gods, is that I should get a lottery ticket since my evap is 11 years old????

Along the related subject, I changed a small four port ' coolant-coupler' (should have taken a picture) last week while at my tech's shop. Actually he insisted that we change it since they regularly 'crack' and within a minute, all engine coolant is lost; the driver doesn't notice and . . bam. . one fried engine. He showed me an '93 S420 that had a fried engine because of this 4-port 'coupler'. It's located on the back fire wall behind the drivers side of the engine just level to the valve cover.

Now why this story?? When I removed my coupler, he said that get very 'brittle' and break easily; having said that, he grabbed it and tried to break it in half. . . with no success! And he's very strong.

So was that changed just before I bought the car (6+ years ago)? The same question could be asked about my evap. Maybe it's only 6 years old and it's copper???

One other story: In the next bay at my tech's shop was a '95 E320. Also with a toasted engine. This story you might find hard to believe.

The owner stopped at a service station and asked the attendant to gas up and also check the water. He did and said it was very low, so he filled it up.

The owner drove away and within a mile or so, the car groaned, moaned, belched and died. The attendant added the water to the oil port! Again should have had my camera! The oil was just like chocolate foam. .
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2005, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 430
PHR82GO, you should try VERY hard to check the wiring harnesses in the car. The insulation used on the electrical wiring can deteriorate, causing all sorts of problems. See my webpage for details (click on the link below my signature). Look in the Projects page under Rewiring the Electronic Throttle Actuators, or Rewiring the MAF Sensors. There is also another harness that supplies the injectors. Check those wires too. Another area of concern is the timing chain and guides. See if the maintenance records show these items were changed. If not, consider changing them. One more thing, look at the attachment point between the front lower control arms and the frame. If there is significant deep rust there, walk away from the car.
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