when i bought the car, somone had already done a coversion, the quality of which i didn't know. i had a leaking hose, so i took the opportunity to do it right. repl compressor (rebuilt), expansion valve, rec-drier, both switches on rec-drier, temp sensor on block, heater control valve (looked fine once i had it out). flushed entire system (not much debris, some dye though) and thoroughly cleaned condensor (not very dirty).

on hwy, can get 40 deg f from center vents, at idle, more like 50. so, i have researched the forum and have come to the conclusion that the only way to pull the temp down is to repl the condensor with a larger, parallel flow unit. my question is, has anyone done this, and if so what is the maximum size you can fit in without too much modification. i know i will have to have some connectors fabricated (no a big problem), and evac, rechg the system again but that's not a problem either since my neighbor is an a/c tech.

91 190e, 2.6
91,000 mi

thanks

"bump"

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"the simplest answer is usually the correct answer"

1991 190e, 2.6 (helga)
91,000 mi

no one have any experience with this?

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"the simplest answer is usually the correct answer"

1991 190e, 2.6 (helga)
91,000 mi

Since you went through all that why did you not change it BACK to R12? If you had, there would be no need for a PF condensor. It might be easier and cheaper to just change back to R12. R12 can be had for $14 a pound now. I just bought a jug of it for that. 134 is going up in price rapidly. This offers a very simple and economical fix for you.

If you still want to try a PF condensor, go to www.ackits.com. Get the phone number and call those guys and talk to them. They are very helpful and KNOW their stuff. They sell lots of PF condensors. Ask them about whether they recommend 134 or 12 for your car.

Good luck,

well, i found a hose leaking after all that. it's one a po had made. i have ordered the correct hose from the stealership. since i have to go back into the system, should i just convert back to r12? do i have to flush all the oil out or is ester oil compatible with r12? i'm just so frustrated. all i want is cold air.......

thanks

__________________
"the simplest answer is usually the correct answer"

1991 190e, 2.6 (helga)
91,000 mi

That hose can cost serious $$$$$$$$$$$$.

Lots of places in your vicinity can rebuild it for a fraction of what a new one costs.

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'91 300-SEL

It's been a few years since I did A/C work, but my belief is that it's not legal to re-convert a system back to R12. Not that I'd tell anyone. You still need to be licensed to buy R12, right?

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

R134 a is going up on price. They are looking to replace r-134a now . About 2 years we will see the new stuff. Back on the subject. I would follow Larry's
advise and go back to 12. That car cools better with 12.Especially since you put a reman compressor on it .Those compressors were weak to begin with.

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euro 287
Mercedes Technician 7 Years (retired to Hyundai)
2000 Dodge Durango
98 Mazda truck

since i have to empty the system to change the hose and vacuum again, i think that is the best idea. but, do i have to change oil again or is the 134 oil compatible with 12?

__________________
"the simplest answer is usually the correct answer"

1991 190e, 2.6 (helga)
91,000 mi

oils are not the same. seem to recall r-12 is mineral; 134 is ester/pag...slips my mind at the moment, but they are different.

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'91 300-SEL

went to an a/c shop today. they specialize in nothing else. their advice was to remove compressor, drain as much oil as i could (leave upside down overnight), plug all the lines while doing this, put it back together and they will convert it back to r-12. i'll post back here with the final results next week. plan to pull the compressor on friday or saturday.

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"the simplest answer is usually the correct answer"

1991 190e, 2.6 (helga)
91,000 mi

is the shop going to flush?
reciver dryer changed?
correct amount of mineral oil for R12?
long vacuum?

observe what they do and for how long, you may be surprised.

R134a Pag oil absorbs alot of moisture, more than mineral or ester, mixing oils and refrigernants can create acids in the sytem, reason for the flush.

Autozone AC repair DVD $8.99 get one, get educated and know more than most of the $70+ per hour hacks!

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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's)
1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD)
2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K
1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K
1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD)
1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE)

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