1986 300E
The drivers door seems to have a rattle inside - would like to remove the inner door panel but I don't see any screws. Is the whole thing just snap-on? How is the door pull (handle) fastened? Would very much appreciate comments before I start pulling and brake something.

Most of it snaps on, the door handle is fastened on with a 10mm head bolt, remove the other screws and remove the push on tabs and then you have to lift the panel off from the door as it slips on in 2-3 spots, if you have any mechanical experience it's a simple job.

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Jerry

2004 SL500 Black 55K Miles
2002 s500 Black 90K Miles
1986 300E Gold 233K Miles
1966 Twin Cessna 320D
1989 Jeep Cherokee 233K Miles
1994 Ford Van E150 399K Miles

Thank you for advise - but where abouts is this 10 mm bolt ? On the door panel I can't seem to find any bolts or screws anywhere? Do I first have to un-snap (remove) the door panel?

You'll probably have to pull off some plastic trim at the top of the interior door handle to find the bolt.

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1990 190e 2.6 - The only one I can really call "My Car".

1987 190e 2.3 - The donor car's up and running, only mods are Euros and a Sony headunit. My Dad's runabout now.

1990 300e 2.6 - The parents' ride.

Most interior panels are held in place by upside-down "J" shaped hooks. They require pulling UP, then OUT.

First, you need to remove the panel by the driver's side mirror (if you have one). Again, pull up first, then out.

The inside door release trim is hiding the 10mm bolt others have specified. The trim is in two pieces (you can see the seam) and that can be carefully pried off with a flat bladed screwdriver. You will see the bolt near the door release. Unbolt that.

Also, remove the philips screws that hold the black door latch panel in place.

At this point, you can use the door handle to gain enough force to tug the whole panel up. Once you feel it release, you can then pull out.

Note that there is a speaker harness and a courtesy light harness too. Also a few window sill spring clips might jettison as well. Start hunting for those...

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

What he said...
Also unsrew the door lock
Also take a screwdriver and un hook the conector from the inside door handel by lifting it up out of the plastic socket that it connects to. You will see it behind the said trim.
If your 86' is like my 86' the only wires to disconect are at the bottom of the door to the light there.

Also if you break any of those hooks off the door panel... a good 'wood, metal, plastic,fabric... epoxy will put them back on as good as new.

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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14

[QUOTE=G-Benz]Most interior panels are held in place by upside-down "J" shaped hooks. They require pulling UP, then OUT.

At this point, you can use the door handle to gain enough force to tug the whole panel up. Once you feel it release, you can then pull out.

QUOTE]
Thank you for detailed info -- but one more question -- is the interior door handle/pull also just fastened by the "J" hooks, with no bolts to hold it in place? The problem I am trying to fix is the rattle I am hearing from the drivers side door panel. There seems to be a bit of play at the door pull and I thought that from repeated use perhaps a bolt loosened.
I am a bit disapointed with Mercedes quality - a lot of items just seem to cheaply snap in and I am glad I found this out with my old but well maintained, 1986E before I sprung big $$$$ to buy a newer one. My friend who is a die hard Mercedes owner ( German fellow) has just traded his 1996 for a 2004 and tells me that the quality has gone down hill and that the newer Mercedes are very un-mercedes like with things like flimsy power coffee cup holders etc.