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Bruno
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_ 1992 300TE 160 kmiles |
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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC |
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The best Fluke DMM is their model 189, specs here: http://assets.fluke.com/datasheets/2153ExtSpecs.pdf Steve
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'91 MB 190E 2.3 '08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5 '83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7 |
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Thanks for your guidance Steve. Unfortunately I was unable to double check the Voltage.
After my last post, I checked another AA battery...1.3V O.K. multimeter is working. I go back to the car and pull the connector out half way. I ground the black prong on the strut bolt and place the red prong on the #2 pin. Engine idle increases then decreases. I try it again twice...same thing (idle increases then decreases), then all of a sudden the multimeter reads 00000. I test the multimeter on a AA battery and it reads 00000. Freaking mulitmer broke. Getting dark and I'm desperate, I've got important stuff to do next week. So I try to align it as close to enscribed mark, then I fine tune it by ear. Kind of "Ghetto" but what else could I do? The car no longer surges at idle. It seems to be O.K. and idles at about 800-900rpm until the fan kicks in...that's when the idle drops a little low to about 600rpm. From inside the car it sounds too low (there's a lot of rattling), but when I listen near the engine bay it sounds normal. Oh well....as long as it doesn't stall I'm O.K. with it. Thank you everyone for your opinion and input. ESPECIALLY STEVE. (I'm going to return the radioshack multimeter tomorrow and get my $33 back)
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JR 1986 Gold 300E 4Dr automatic |
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