Help: Have Just Had The Tranmission Rebuilt Fo A 1988, 300te. Now At Idle The "4matic" Light Flashes. Also Noted Is That When The Light Is Flashing The High Pressurre Feed From The Engine Pump Is Loading Then Releasing Via The By Pass Solenoid Near The Rear Fuel Tank.
If You Drive Off Quickly In Say Metal Or Slipperry Conditions You Can Make The Rear Wheels Skid As The Lock-up Does Not Work. If You Take Off Slowly Up To About 5km/h The 4matic Light Goes Out And You Cannot Skid The Wheels As It Has Locked In. When You Come To A Stop The Light Starts Flashing Again. If The Foot Brake Is Applied At Idle The Light Goes Out . Have Replaced The Brake Light Switch. No Change.
Any Cures Please.

unfortunatelyidonothaveananswertoyourproblemalthoughitriedithinkyouwillgetmorehelpbyonlycapitalizing thebeginningofeverysentencebecausedoingthattoeverywordisasannoyingasleavingoutallthespacesgoodluck

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Just goes to show that the biggest DICKHEAD has nothing better to do than post useless and stupid replies. If you want to WANK do it in private.
You appear to be the person in the last line of YOUR own quote.

He's right, however. I will not read a post where every word is capitalized.

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

Pete's been a contributor here a long time. You post 3 times and offend the group. We have our pissin contests, but that is after you've won respect. You need to join the Army or something and learn about pecking order.

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Hi Wayne

Welcome to the neighborhood, I see you have become acquainted with a few of the members and for now, introductions are complete. I am not an English major so I am unable to contribute to the interaction you have with your keyboard, I can offer some thoughts regarding your vehicles problem.

1) Double check the transfer case fluid level: Remove 17mm allen cap/plug little to no fluid should flow from the fill hole. If a large amount of fluid begins to rush out then you may need a transfer case. The hydraulic pistons inside the case were/are prone to premature failure!!

2) Since the transmission was just reworked I would think that an installer would bleed the hydraulic lines at the transfer case. If I remember correctly you may need to bridge some electrical connections at the control unit in order to pressurize both circuits at the T-case. (I’ll get back to you with the specifics) Some of the early model T-cases are/were fitted with bleeder valves, later versions were not. You can try bleeding the lines at the T-case and see if it improves your current situation. You may want to also bleed the hydraulic system at the differential.

3) If the 2 previous suggestions do not resolve the situation I might direct my attention to the control valve assembly. The accumulator may be available separate through an after market source, you’ll need to do some leg work to find out. If not than you may need to succumb to MB’s proud price for the assembly, again more leg work on your part.

GOOD LUCK, oopsmybad Good luck!

You do need an accumulator. When the tranny was replaced the lines were taken off of the transfer case which let pressure off of the system. When that happened the diaphram in the accumulator let go releasing it's nitrogen. Without the cushion of Nitrogen the pressure builds and can be seen stressing the hose at idle like you describe.