Does anyone have any experience with changing the motor mounts? I need to replace the left motor mount on my 220d. I just wanted to know if this is something I can do myself or pay $80 for labor at my mechanic. thanks for any info. andy.

Andy:
you might try doing a search using the keywords "changing motor mounts". There are a number of interesting threads on this topic, including the following:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=7061

If you have all the proper tools for SAFELY jacking up and supporting the engine, then it should be a simple job. I think that you will have to look at the motor mount areas on each side, and see how free of obstructions the work areas are. I don't know how your 220 is set up, but you may decide that $80 is inexpensive by the time you disconnect the throttle linkage, radiator hoses, remove any belly pans, buy any necessary jack stands, etc. as recommended in the above thread. On the other hand, you may decide the fun, satisfaction, and any cost savings are worth the time and effort.

Good luck on the project.

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

I love you, JCE! But, the 220D is a minimalist diesel with virtually nothing obstructing the motor mounts!

Andy, I am getting ready to do mine on my 300SD. The only thing I can add to JCE's wise and sober post, is to change BOTH of them while you're at it, just to be sure that they are even and both equal and new. Where you buy them is a different issue...

However, any additional tips from the membership on doing mine would be appreciated, via this thread, or email.

And as regards safety on this post, WHERE IS DEEZEL?

__________________

Scott Longston
Northern California Wine Country...
"Turbos whistle, grapes wine..."

You should replace the transmission mount as well. I replaced both motor mounts and the tranny mount last weekend. All of them had collapsed. I used two ramps, a hydraulic jack, and a few blocks of wood to get the proper clearance. I did not disconnect any hoses. It took about 3 hours and the results are unbelievable.

__________________
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
-------------------------------------
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

Safety Officer Deezel is currently out of the office on business. He should be back by the weekend or early next week.

Real life business travel getting in the way again!

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

I am truly honored you noticed my absence on this subject! Using the new posts feature, I am reviewing 363 new posts since my last visit, I knew I should have brought the lap top just to keep up with "The Shop"!

From the technical posts, it sounds like an excellent DIY task, especially if approached with the right equipment. True, you may spend as much on the tools as the $80 saved in labor, but think of the knowledge you will gain, and you will also be in a better position to do even more work on the car in the future.

Now for the safety tips -

Use good quality Jack Stands/Ramps on solid level ground
Chock the wheels securely, and set parking brake.
Put a big block or tool box under the car in case it falls off the stands (Mike Tangas California Earthquake tip!)
Use safety glasses while under the car
Have a second person around at all times who knows how to use a floor jack
Have a phone handy for 911
Think about what you are doing, don't put your body parts at risk!

Take your time and have fun! Let the PartsShop provide a parts quote, for such an excellent site, it is the least we can do for them. Let us know how it goes!