The door checks or stoppers as some people call them, on my car need replacing. I want to get that firm feeling back in the doors as you close them. Right now all you need to close the door is a light push. So I called the dealer and they list 2 different part number and prices for the fronts versus the rears. They want $37.20 a piece for the fronts and $43.20 for the rears. I looked them up in the "partsshop" and there is only one listing and of course the price is cheaper, $28 a piece. So now I am confused, is there a difference between the doors? I know that the front doors open wider than the rears, so to that extent I can see a need for a different door check. The partshop doesn't specify in their listing. Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to get the classic "THUD" sound back in the doors and not the loose clank sound it has now.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

I presume that door stops/checks are the parts in the door near the pillar that determine how far the door can be opened...
In that case there are two different door checks/stops; the front door checkers are approx. 10mm longer as the ones in the rear.

Replacing these door checks, however, will not bring back the "THUD" sound. The sound you get when closing the door come from locking side and the parts mounted inside the door.
Do you still have the tar isolation plates stuck to the inner-side of the door? If these are gone, the sound will get loose and "clank" as well...

greetingz,

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1990 300SL-24
1993 C250D with a minor 600+k kilometer
www.MBenzNL.com(the Netherlands)

MBenz, Yeah it's those parts. Sometimes they are also reffered to as door straps. I figured there might be a difference between the fronts and reas, but why doesn't anyone list the difference? I know that the door checks won't completely get me the "THUD", but it's a start. I figured since these have lost their stiffness that this may be contributing to the "clank" sound. I do plan on going through each door and tightening everything down, but I'll have to wait until it gets above 35F degs. outside. There is nothing like smashing your nuckles when there real cold. My doors do have the tar plates, but I will probably spray some more sound dentaning in the doors to help it out. I just want the doors to get that typical MB stiff solid feeling back in the doors.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member